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“40 minutes? You want to maybe reduce a lifetime of struggle, and art, and sex and music and fashion into 40 minutes?!” An indisputable force of nature, trying to bottle the essence of Honey Dijon in a single podcast episode is almost a moot task – but for the final episode of i-Dentity, we tried our very best. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
His work is the unofficial preserve of seemingly every female superstar – his graphic, curvilinear jumpsuits in particular a staple in the tour wardrobes of everyone from Dua Lipa to Megan Thee Stallion, Yseult to Beyoncé. In this episode, Casey discusses his journey to the heights of the industry, dancing as catharsis, and the logic behind his boundary-pushing approach to casting. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran – better known as the fearless artistic duo Fecal Matter – join us in this conversation following Earth Day to discuss their story behind their uncompromising style, values, and the power of self-expression. “Even if there is all this animosity… the identity is so strong. It is so ingrained in what I do as a daily practice of self love and of expression that nothing can get in my way.” Hear this from Hannah and more in today's episode. Hosted on Acast....
In this episode, Diplo discusses how growing up across America’s South shaped his eclectic perspective, his thoughts on cultural appropriation in music, and how he believes the internet has amplified the reach and potential of subculture. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
This week, we dig deep into queercore, the contemporary value of shock and the line between arthouse and porn with modern cinema’s queer punk provocateur, Bruce LaBruce. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
She is a party producer and community organiser who has been responsible for some of the most memorable nights – and looks, for that matter – that the Big Apple has ever seen. This week, we speak to New York’s quasi-official queen of clubs, Susanne Bartsch, about a life lived at the heart of the party, and her new book, Bartschland. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
In Episode 4 of the i-Dentity podcast, we’re joined by fashion designer and subculture connoisseur Martine Rose , known around the world for her distinctly London vision. Martine discusses her extraordinary career, unconventional upbringing in South London, and why subculture and nightlife will always be a focus of her work. “The feeling that I get on the dance floor hasn't changed. It's completely electrifying. I still feel like a 14-year-old standing outside of Strawberry Sundae. It genuinely ...
This week, we’re back with none other than James ‘Jeanette’ Main, the former Boombox host and East London nightlife legend. In the mid-2000s, he became the so-called ‘door girl’ for Richard Mortimer’s Sunday evening club night Boombox, known by the moniker of ‘Jeanette’. One of a handful of nights in the East End, it sparked a renaissance in queer London nightlife and marked a shift in the city’s creative centre, playing host to fashion designers, musicians, artists, art students — and indeed th...
This week, legendary British artist Cosey Fanni Tutti joins us to discuss her lifelong commitment to counterculture, and five decades of breaking down boundaries through her subversive multidisciplinary art practice. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
i-Dentity podcast is back, and this series we’re dedicating each episode to an artist we feel truly personifies subculture. Kicking it off is seminal photographer and documenter, and long-time contributor to i-D, Liz Johnson Artur . Listen to the first episode of our new series, where Liz discusses her aversion to being described as a ‘street’ or ‘club’ photographer, her ever-expanding Black Balloon Archive, and why legendary club-night PDA will always be one of her favourite nights in London hi...
We are closing out series two with the defining QTPOC subculture, ballroom. 'Serve’, ‘read’, or ‘throwing shade’ – whether first heard from the lips of queens on RuPaul’s Drag Race, or from sassy teens on TikTok, these terms have become part of English slang. But if you were to ask the lion’s share of people using them where they originally came from, we’d wager that most wouldn’t be able to tell you. Its roots extend back as far as the late 1960s when, in response to racism they experienced in ...
Shaved heads, wrap-around Oakleys, neon tracksuits, Alpha Industries bombers and Nike trainers. This is the story of how hardcore changed contemporary fashion for decades to come. In this episode, Mahoro Seward, i-D’s Senior Fashion Features Editor, speaks to Ari Versluis , the photographer behind Exactitudes, the emblematic image series that first typified the gabber look and brought it to the world, and a former gabber himself. Lis Rutten , an Amsterdam-based casting director and former model,...
What is alté, you ask? Well, let’s start by saying this: it’s probably easier to describe it in terms of what it isn’t than what it is. In the years since the West African subcultural movement has come to global prominence – say, over the past five years or so – it’s often been erroneously tagged as a music genre, pioneered by the likes of Cruel Santino, Odunsi The Engine, Lady Donli and Grammy Award winner Tems . The thing is, though, there are as many interpretations of the alté sound as there...
Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo: these are some of the biggest names in fashion today. Even for the novice fashionista, the very mention of their names conjures a vision of pushing fashion to its absolute limits. Their highly conceptual, avant-garde approach to design, combining the histories of Eastern and Western dress, emerged within Japan’s postwar counterculture. Almost half a century on from their first collections, their work has infiltrated all aspects of the fashion indust...
Skinny jeans, holey cardigans and eyes sticky with kohl that many vowed never to tout again after the financial crash of 2008 have all made it back to the forefront of fashion through the guise of its next iteration, ‘indie sleaze’. But do you really know Indie? Cast your mind back to the early 2000s — perhaps you’re too young to remember it the first time, which is why in this week’s episode of the second series of our i-Dentity podcast, we’re doing it for you. Join us as we delve back into the...
i-Dentity is back. Welcome to Series Two. In Series One, we covered the genesis of hip-hop style. But what about the bling? From the streets of hip-hop’s major cities to the lyrics and covers of its greatest albums, we trace the story of the genre’s love affair with jewellery. But Cuban chains and diamond grills didn’t just add to the look of hip-hop, its movers and shakers actively crafted the look and feel of jewels we see today. As we’ve seen in hip-hop fashion, the jewellery worn by rappers ...
Once a hedonist’s hidden secret, Ibiza found itself in the spotlight in the late 80s when its unique Balearic sounds intersected with British club and drug culture in a moment of pure euphoria. This week, we’re exploring the roots of acid house and the ever-evolving nature of this small island with fashion consultant Lulu Kennedy, Manumission royalty Dawn Hindle, artistic director of Pacha, Francisco Ferrer and artist Jamie Holman. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information....
Grande Dame of punk, visionary fashion designer, lifelong activist, Vivienne Westwood is one of the few people for whom the word icon barely scratches the surface. In this week's very special episode, we hear from Vivienne's son Joe Corré, her granddaughter Cora Corré, historian Valerie Steele – and even Vivienne herself – on rebellion, responsibility and staying true to yourself. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
On the 9th of November 1989 the Berlin wall, which had split the German city in two for almost three long decades, was pulled down. Within a matter of hours the area that had once been the outer edges of both East and West Berlin was now the centre of a united city, complete with a set of abandoned buildings ready to be taken over by Berlin’s youth. A new sound was incubated in these spaces, influenced by techno records imported from Detroit, ushering in a new type of club culture within the cit...
Aries, Stüssy, Palace and Supreme. These are just a few of the biggest brands in fashion right now and they all have their roots in the countercultural sport of skateboarding. Skating and the culture around it has never been bigger, officially hitting the mainstream when it became an Olympic sport at the 2021 Tokyo Games, but how has it kept its edge, the authenticity which is so important to its place within the cultural lexicon of today? In this episode, Osman Ahmed, Fashion Features Director ...
‘Killer’, ‘Hard’ and ‘Tougher than the rest’. These were all phrases adopted by legendary stylist Ray Petri who brought together a small group of friends under the moniker Buffalo and subsequently changed the way we think of styling today. It was a look, an attitude, a crew marked by their signature navy blue MA-1 bomber jackets with the word ‘BUFFALO’ printed on the back. Perhaps not a subculture per se, but the style that evolved from the Buffalo movement was inherently subcultural, taken from...
A group of football fans living in Liverpool in the late 1970s were destined to change men’s fashion forever. They were called the scallies and with their close Mancunian relatives the perries, they would eventually spread their sartorial standards all over the UK. These groups of football fans with a penchant for expensive European sportswear would come to be known collectively as ‘the casuals’. Back in the 1980s you might have thought that the casuals were simply a group of tracksuit-loving, t...
In the 1990s one area of Tokyo saw the rise of a unique style movement that would go on to change street fashion forever. Harajuku, a small neighbourhood between the busy shopping mecca of Shibuya and neon-hued nightlife of Shinjuku became the epicentre of a series of truly fashion-led subcultures that were transmitted to the rest of the world through the street style bible FRUiTS. From urahara to lolita, wamono to decora, teenagers from all over Japan would come to show off their latest genre-b...
In the dark streets of 1970s Soho, there once lay a club called The Blitz. It was within these walls every Tuesday night that the glitterati of London’s post-punk scene would gather to pose to a soundtrack of Bowie, Kraftwerk and the occasional Edith Piaf song. To get in, you didn’t just have to look good, but the emphasis was on being totally original in the way that you were dressed. Edwardian sci-fi pirates and bondage nuns, with hair done at the nearby salon Antenna, were not unheard of at T...
Designer hoodies, oversized logos, luxury tracksuits and the cult of the sneakerhead. It’s likely none of these would exist without the influence of hip hop. In fact, the fashion industry exists in its current form because of pioneering black stylists, artists and designers who paved the way for the likes of Kanye West and the late Virgil Abloh to become the most important designers of the early 2020s. But hip hop’s relationship with fashion is a complex one. For 50 years, designers like the Har...
The e-girl is one of the most pervasive internet subcultures we have today. But the e-girl didn’t appear out of nowhere - her origins lie in aesthetic styles which emerged during third wave feminism in the US. From the Riot Grrrls, to skater style, through to indie rock, soft grunge and emo, the e-girl is an aesthetic amalgamation of subcultures from the relatively recent past. In particular, the 1990s streetwear brand x-girl, founded by Sonic Youth frontwoman Kim Gordon and stylist Daisy von Fu...
Even if it doesn’t always get the credit it deserves, the influence of Dancehall can be felt throughout the entirety of mainstream pop culture today. The sound percolates through Rihanna, Justin Bieber, Drake, and even the Yorkshire-born Ed Sheeran’s Shape of You . Female musicians are dressing like ‘90s Dancehall Queens - Beyonce’s Nusi Quero look on the cover of RENAISSANCE wouldn’t have looked out of place on a ‘90s Dancehall Queen, and neither would most of the fits in Cardi B and Megan Thee...
Hailing from London’s East End, grime is a genre that exploded into the cultural mainframe in 2014 with Skepta and JME’s That’s Not Me . Speaking to both the cultural moment - with the rise of social media apps like Instagram beginning to distort reality - as well as Skepta’s experience in the music industry, it marked grime’s first spotlight as a genre of international significance. But it was well over a decade earlier that grime had emerged from East London, broadcast through the DIY transmit...
