Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 1 - podcast episode cover

Watches & Wonders 2025: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva | Day 1

Apr 02, 202530 minEp. 264
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Summary

The HODINKEE team discusses new releases from Watches & Wonders 2025, focusing on Rolex, A. Lange & Söhne, and Patek Philippe. The conversation covers the Rolex Land Dweller, Lange's Honeygold Odysseus and new 34mm watch, and Patek's Cubitus and Calatrava models. The episode offers initial impressions and dives into the design, innovation, and market strategy behind these luxury timepieces.

Episode description

Welcome to the first episode of Hodinkee Radio at Watches and Wonders 2025. We will be recording and publishing daily podcast episodes to recap Watches & Wonders. Stay tuned for our takes on all the latest releases, takeaways from the show, and the general shenanigans that tend only to be captured on mic after a long day of seeing lots of watches and drinking (way) too much espresso. 

We've finished our first day at the show this year, and Ben is joined by Malaika, Rich, and TanTan to talk about the latest from Rolex, Patek, and A. Lange & Sohne. New releases like the Odysseus and the Rolex Land-Dweller and a couple of hot takes on the Patek Philippe Cubitus in 40mm. Enjoy!

Transcript

This week's episodes of Hodinkee Radio are proudly sponsored by our partners at UBS. Stay tuned later in the episode for what we're planning this year in celebration of all things horology. And keep an eye out for the return of UBS House of Craft. All right, everybody, we are here at Watches and Wonders, day one, 2025.

In a secret corner of the Pell Expo, we're never going to reveal where we are because then all the fans will come up and ask photographs from Rich and Tante. Naturally. So obviously the big news is Land Dweller, the Rolex Land Dweller. We have our man Rich Forden over here who wrote, I think...

The seminal piece on it, I think top of the news charts these days with the Landowner. So tell us about it, Rich. Yeah, so it's Rolex's brand new model. I called it the most important model in decades. It was leaked. We saw it on Roger Federer's wrist.

It features their first ever in-house developed escapement, which is an indirect impulse escapement. The details are deep and you can go to the story for those, but... the bare bones of it is that the movement features two silicone balance wheels etc etc it features a integrated bracelet which causes a bit of a stir in the honeycomb dial I love the thing. I'm so excited to see it. But what do you guys think?

So it's really like a little bit of like reference 1530 Oyster Quartz Beta 21 vibes are almost argenta in some ways. It's that type of 70s vibe and really Royal Oak-ish in some ways. Not-esque, but-ish. That's right. Never ask. Always ish. That's an inside joke. Don't worry about it. What do you think, Elaine? I don't. I mean, okay, to be clear, I like the case. I like the bracelet. I like the vibe. I like Rolex being innovative.

Not sure about the dial. I'm 100% there with it. But I haven't seen it in person, so who knows. Right. But... Rolex does that thing don't they with like modern novelty dials like a palm leaf or flower or whatever so maybe this is just like the beginning.

I don't know about that because I feel like normally when they do something like that, it's usually everything else is the same. The numerals here are different. You know, the proportions are different. Even the dial proportions of the bezel seem a little like off. So for me, I think when you throw so many elements in there, that's when... starts getting confusing palm frond was interesting because it's just a day just and then you put that in this

I don't know. Like, I honestly would have been, I think it would have been cooler if you saw that escapement go into something completely normal. Yeah. You know, I think that would have, that would have felt like a Rolex move from like 10 years ago. Isn't.

Isn't the way we're feeling right now heavily influenced by seeing leaks and you see that dial and it's leaked and rumored that it's a honeycomb dial and you're like, whoa, that's strange, the integrated bracelet. And then now when we're actually presented with the...

product and it's more about the movement and all of that stuff's a little more secondary it's hard to divorce from what we saw first which is the leaks can i just say as somebody who isn't really mechanically minded if it had been put in something

that was already in the catalog, I wouldn't be thinking twice about the movement. That's the issue with Rolex. Rolex often makes these fairly significant technical innovations, but they put it in a day-date, which you see on your grandfather or somebody that looks like their grandfather, like me.

Like, you know, it's just something that really you just don't pay attention to. They're always innovating. This time they chose to give it a whole new canvas and say, we're going to put it in a whole new line, which really also to your story, Rich, like is not a date just, but it's above it.

Not a day date. It's below it. It's a whole new thing in the middle, which is always interesting because that was always like big brother, little brother, father, son, whatever you want to call it. Now there's this new stepchild in the middle, so to speak. It's kind of interesting that just... on the design front it's like yes it's a callback to oyster quartz but it is like a modern look yeah and i don't know that's an interesting move it's thin yeah it's thin

Open case back. Yeah. I mean, it's really, I mean, I've said this elsewhere recently, but like Rolex is doing a lot of stuff that is really un-Rolex. This is for sure one of them. I mean, to leak the watch purposefully like that. Yeah. Even two years ago, they never would have done that. Is it? Rolex as the emoji watch. That was my line in the sand. Oh, that's a great question. That was a turning point in the un-Rolexness of Rolex. Sincerely though.

Really an amazing thing. Obviously the number one story on our side, the number one kind of thing people are talking about. What else are you guys psyched by? I mean, I'm always going to say Langa. You like Langa? Yeah, no. I tend to appreciate it from afar. No, no. I always like what they're doing, especially when they're...

They kind of come out with solid releases that, you know, I think they're mind-blowing in a way that's not very show-offish. Show-offish. Show-offish, you know. Not show-off-esque, right? That's the important part. Show-offish. Yeah, yeah, show-offish. We're writers here, right? Right. Some of us. Some of us, at least.

No, but I think, you know, Langa continues to just iterate in a way that I think only they tend to do. You know, obviously the headliner is going to be the Minute Repeater of Perpetual, which is, I mean, impressive watchmaking, right? I know in your piece, you kind of compare it to the...

category definer which is paddocks um and you know i think they do a good job of still feeling like manga uh while trying to compete in that category like what do you think is are are they doing a good job of that well i mean Let me take a step back, if I may. I don't want to embarrass our young friend here. This is his first Watches and Wonders.

Right? Yeah. And how do you feel about it? You know, it's good. It's busy. Okay. Where did you see the langas first? Oh, that's right. We saw them in... We saw them a few days ago. We went over to the sort of little hybrid boutique where Vacheron and I believe Longa Share Space. And, you know, you were filming your interview with Wilhelm every year, you know, as you do. And, you know, we got to see them in person, which was really nice.

outside of the booths, right? In natural lighting, getting to play with the movement. Yeah, and so I think that's also setting the experience for me, which is being able to see that actually in context of how one would normally get to... Yeah, and I think that's where I was headed with it. It's like, I think seeing...

that stuff kind of ahead of the schedule this is such a like we're wearing well you're not wearing a tie you're wearing a purple suit yeah we're all wearing it's actually a machine it's over thank you yeah yes um you know willie wonk over here yeah i mean but like yeah that well that day i guess i was wearing a jacket because i was on camera but like i was

sneakers like it's much more like informal setting today we're all dolled up and like to see that type of watch which is like it's a real grand complication like a literal one um on the wrist of wilhelm just wearing it around and then the prototype you know that changes the perspective at least for me on how you You've used something that's 700 plus thousand dollars. And then they also had a few other watches that I really like, like the Honeygold Odysseus.

Yeah, talk to me about Honeygold. To be clear, everyone who works at Hodinkee is a longer head, okay? It's because we know what watches are. We're like longer heads, okay? Tan Tan? And I, our friendship blossomed through like our appreciation of Lana. Literally a Zeitwerk Minute repeater on Honeygold. That is what cemented our friendship. It's like kind of a beautiful story. So talk to me about Honeygold. Yo, Ben, why are you so excited?

I think for me, it's funny. I mean, you have been in this industry for a while now. You've been doing this for a long time. And you... you know it's it's very clear when ben gets excited about something because it's a reaction that you usually tend to not see every day at least yeah for sure and the way i always describe it is you when you first saw that watch

You look like a kid in the candy store. 100%, right? You have a picture of it. And I have a picture of it. Yeah, you have a picture of it. Look, I've been doing this a long time. This is, I think, SIHH or whatever this is called.

15 or so i've been doing like 17 years which is insane and uh i still like when something really hits me it really fucking hits me that watch really hit me hard and i was like the minute i saw it i was like i want can i have it and then i had to like negotiate to see if i could even get it and i'm not kidding um and you know it's Like it takes something like I love Lange. The quality of Lange is superlative. It is.

I'll say this on the record happily, it is better at scale than Patek, AP, blah, blah, blah. If you're talking about every watch, right? An entry-level watch from Lange is better than an entry-level watch from most of those other brands, in my not-so-humble opinion. The Odysseus never really jumped out at me. Because I love the Royal Oak.

I love the Nautilus. I've owned those for 10 plus years each. I adore them. The Odysseus was like, I just don't need another steel watch or another titanium watch. Sure. This watch honey gold to me is something so special. Now we kind of see it with sand gold and AP. Yeah. It is such a unique.

color, unique weight. It is so much harder. Like it really feels harder with your fingernail than a standard gold. And so to do a full bracelet in honey gold with a brown dial, I pretty much dress like this every day. So it works. Pink, rose, tones, whatever with brown. Yeah. Chef's kiss. And I know, whatever, come for me if you want. I'm undoing my I hate rose gold opinion. Whatever, I'm fickle. I think rose gold, brown dial, hubisus, which we should line up.

Yep. For our next topic of comedy. Yep. Here for it. so before we get to that let me just wrap up longa with our guy over here wrap it up 34 millimeter tell me about it that is the silent killer i think richard rich rich you like that watch i was going to tee this up because i have not seen longa yet but i want to know what it looks like in person It is proportionally so different.

than any of the current or, you know, I would say past five years or so, any of the time-only watches they've done. It is longest, smallest caliber they developed in-house. Ever. Ever, you know, and also interesting anniversary year for them. They're celebrating anniversaries.

anniversary year but they're celebrating 75 movements developed in house which is crazy to think about and I think that counts you know variations when you're doing a lumen movement and you're removing some powers or you know indicator or whatever but 75 is a lot to do Right. And so I think it's cool where that such a like a big number.

goes into such a small sort of movement that in any other brand i think would just immediately get passed on i think you would just be like okay they just did a smaller watch so what but they really like actually focused on developing something from the ground up so i mean i was reading what tony

was saying and long story short movement got a completely redesigned going train and 72 hours of power reserve so the current 1815s right and the caliber is like that big it's tiny and it's like it's four point something millimeters thin i think it's like 4.8 millimeters thick right um and

Just to have that where the current 1815s, in a much larger case, have 50 hours of power reserve, you know, like, it's cool where this is becoming their next thing. And, you know, for context, too, last year they discontinued basically every small watch they made. Every single Saxonia, time only.

all gone and so i was like okay well there's got to be something up here i did not expect something like that from the ground up and even smaller yeah right smallest one was a 35 millimeter saxonia now we're 34. it wears What are the combinations? Is it honey and blue dial? So there's two blue dials, one in white gold and one in pink gold. Okay. So it's pink. It's pink gold. Yeah, yeah. And Lunga doesn't do blue dials too often, as you know, you know.

whenever they do it, it's kind of for a special occasion. And I believe most of them are usually time limited. So I would venture a guess that we probably won't see this for a long time. They're not really disclosing that or talking about that at all, but they never last longer than five years or so.

to tread on with Tentem like it was a chic little watch. I mean at 34 is like you're making a statement. That's your that's your. It's definitely definitely my range of the spectrum and I the first gen Saxonia in 34. and i think it's a second gen 1815 it's actually like 35 and a half two of my favorite watches i've ever put on my wrist so

beyond excited to see that thing in person. Okay, that's a really big statement coming from Rich. I'll put the modern qualifier on there. Of course. If there's one modern Langa that's for Rich, it's 100% this watch. Because it's, and the thing is, you know, you've seen the 34mm Saxonia's. I don't...

you're ready for the proportions again it's it's i believe it's uh six point it's six point something millimeters thin for for context the saxonia thin i think is 5.9 yeah so it's just a hair thinner but just the way that i mean

The previous Saxonias that you were talking about, you know, they're a little thicker. They're a bit taller, yeah. They're a bit taller. And so just putting this on your wrist, you're going to like it. I love the dichotomy of Longer T. It's like Zeitwerk and then this. Yeah, like hamburger and like the slice of American cheese.

And I respect that. No, I agree. And then I ran into our good friend of the show, Gary Steingart, yesterday. And he's really... We love him. We love Gary. We love Gary. Iconic. He doesn't need any more love, but we love Gary. We love him. Ran into him and he said, what's going on? He's here reporting for...

the atlantic or bloomberg and i mentioned the 34 millimeter and he said oh my god like that that is my watch and he actually had another watch that he was about to order he's like i'm not ordering that i'm gonna do this and then i was dming with um this guy that used to work here we had a little

him go because he was drinking on the job tony trena oh yeah and um i know he was just classic and he was like this is the watch of the show no doubt about it so the the nerdy skinny little white guys love this watch for sure oh yeah Tony likes everything I like, so it makes sense. That's right. You're the original Tony Traynor. But it's just fun to see friends of the show that we all love and know very well. Also really loving this watch.

Special thanks again to our partners at UBS for their support of Hodinkee Radio. Last October, Hodinkee and UBS brought together some of the most influential personalities and brands in the industry to celebrate all things watches. This year, we're partnering again with expanded events across the U.S. in addition to our fall House of Craft in New York. Stay tuned to Hodinkee for updates on these events and other projects with our friends at UBS. Now...

Back to the show. Okay, can we talk about Patek now? Of course, we have to. Please. I don't even know where to start because never did I think I'd see the day where I was most excited about Patek on day one. A Patek Cubitus. not just the cubitus like there are other yeah overall i like i we need to make this like very clear i have never seen malika this excited about like

a general group of watches in my life. Okay, that might be slightly... You haven't seen me at the Cartier booth. Oh yeah, that's true. That's later in the day. for sure it's more exciting to me than normal i think honestly from a design perspective it's the first time i've seen patek do stuff that i'm like seriously into like design language the color the use of brown the use of salmon isn't even my thing and i'm like this salmon looks hot the color on the color travel

6196, the 5370. 5370. And then Cupidus, raised gold, brand dial. 40 millimeters. 40 millimeters. I'm not even being controversial. Like, I like it. So let's talk about that a little bit. So the Big Cubitus came out just in October, like not long ago, to already have a new one, smaller case size, 45 down to 40.

Same movement. I got 45. Yeah, but it's square. I mean, it's not. 45 includes the ears. The numbers don't count. The numbers don't count. So this is only precious. So it's white and rose. What do you think? So, I mean, I was really confused. I think that was the initial thought. That's normal for you. Yeah, exactly. I'm usually like, where am I? That was the first question. And I think for me, I loved sort of...

the bizarreness of the first Cubitus launch, right? In a way that I think maybe made people question my tastes. What do you mean by the bizarreness? I think it was so... They really went into the launch with a bang. And I think... With the leak, you mean? No, I think just the overall, the strategy, right? And I think 45 is a statement. Yeah, that's a big watch. That's to do such a brutish kind of case with that size is...

I would just say bizarre is the only word I can think of. I don't know if maybe the brand thinks of it that way. Like, but I think, you know, you it's a, it's a statement. I like what they were doing with it. I think it was the way to get people to talk about it because I think in context. and this might be a hot take i think these two cubitus or cubit eye are

almost a little boring in comparison, which I don't think is a bad thing at all. Boring, but you want it. Boring, but you want it. Comercially more sort of palatable. Here's my thing as well. The square. I didn't think it's as controversial as everybody makes out. And I do think there's something to be said. I'm now seeing having done like a bit of a cycle in the watch world that trends actually do make it to the brands eventually.

um and yes it's the 70s thing but these like angular shapes are like obviously kind of i don't know i i like it i like when something's different um i i like to be challenged um and i think cubitus actually i haven't seen it yet you've seen it um i'm ready for it okay rich did everyone take patek's bait by like falling for the trick of yeah wow crazy cubitus it's huge there's a weird complicated one and now they're just going to slowly like win us over for sure with the right product

Yes, I think the answer is. Obviously, it's a plan that we've seen before from others for sure, but I think the 45mm A... obviously i've worn it like it doesn't wear like a 45 i'd say it wears like a 42. the 40 which i just got out of seeing probably wears more like a 37. so it's quite small because i remember when it came out i was like i want the 3800 version of cuba disc

Kid you not. So before James and I went in to see it, I was chatting with a gentleman who works at product development and he was wearing a 38, I'm sorry, 3,800 Nautilus. And he's like, this is what we're doing. It really is the 3,800. It is that size. It is not. I don't know how to describe it. It is much smaller than you might think. 40 millimeters to me is a Submariner or Daytona. This is way smaller than that.

Because also it's 40 millimeters with all the ears and measuring code of span wise. So the dial has to be basically 38. They really like what you're saying in there 1010. Great joke, right? Master comedian. Yeah.

Yeah, I just like I think the reason why I'm still a little like just I need to see them in person, of course. Yeah, but it's more from the strategy side that I have this weird fascination with which is I think usually For something like this you would let the first sort of generation run a year and then you would kind of come in being like let's revive the conversation in a new light this is sort of like and my question to maybe you guys is

I think it's, I agree with Rich that it's intentional, but do you think that it could be interpreted as sort of like they're walking it back a little in sort of that like boldness that the first one was?

I just think the world moves quick, you know. You think so? Yeah. I think you're totally right. Yeah. And it's about the consumer. Yeah. I think you're totally right. And I think if there's one through line through everything that we've seen and we've already published like 50 stories on the site. Yeah. It's like people are producing commercial products to sell.

Right? It's like, okay, there's a minute repeated from Long Island, whatever. But the small, whatchamacallit? 1815s. 1815s. There you go. I'm a watch expert. That thing, the Odysseus, every Rolex, obviously. People want stuff that they can put into a dealer. It's got to move quickly. The world is just different now.

In many cases, like the Cubitists, I happen to know, like we can't keep in stock with watches Switzerland and at all dealers. But they want stuff that like people are going to walk in and buy. And I think if you look around the world, you go to...

you know, Bond Street in London or Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, like there are a lot of watches available for purchase. And so I think Paddock may, and I don't know this at all, may have just said, you know what, instead of waiting a year, let's just pull it right up to Watches and Wonders and get it out there. Yeah.

I mean, I suppose it doesn't really, because both are in precious metal, they're not really, you know, battling against their sort of steel allocations and percentages. So they can kind of more freely reduce. To be clear, these watches, I think the price is like $76,000. Like it's not a cheap one. They're precious. They're gold. and with a gold bracelet so like it's not a cheap thing um but it's you know it's something that people will want to buy

Continuing with Patek. Yeah. New Calatrava. Oh my god. 6196 for Rich. Yeah. I've been waiting for this case, which they use in the rare handcraft section. It's like that 3837. calatrava and they've had that case and it's been frustrating me for years that they don't offer a calatrava yeah in that case with that movement in particular with that movement yeah filled out um it seems like a real winner i mean the movement's already incredible we saw it before

And the aesthetics here. 6119, right? 6119, yeah, hobnail. Shout out to Mark, hobnail. The aesthetics are really, really good. I agree. Yeah, the black indices. I feel like, and Rich has heard me talk about this all the time in the office, maybe too much, but I think for me, what gets me so excited about the 6196 is that it... finally, I think, balances out the Calatrava collection for them. Totally agree. In a way that, like, and for me, I'm not really a vintage guy at all, right? But for me...

The 5196 was such a cool thing from Patek because it's in the same way that Lung appeals to me because...

what you can buy right now is very close to what maybe you loved about the brand as it was relaunching. Patek moves fast. Patek, sometimes not so much. For me, especially in the Calatrava area, the 5196 was just like that perfect time machine that almost like it gave you the closest thing to something that you could buy that was a modern watch but you could still get a taste of like what the old sort of paddock was like I hear you yeah

But I disagree. Okay. And so the thing about the 5196 is, like, for years I've been saying that an entry-level Lange is way better than an entry-level Paddock. And in my mind always was the 5196. And to be clear, like, 5196 you used to be able to see in cases even here. They were everywhere. That movement was so small and so old for that. And to be clear, the dial was incredible, right? It was a 572 Tony Breguet. It was exactly what I would want. And I had the opportunity to buy that watch.

A dozen times, had a dozen times and never chose to do it because it's like this just this movement is not a potentially movement in the way that it should be for the year 2025 or 15 or whatever. Isn't that kind of the origin story of the 96? As 90s, like these are all 96s in a way. And I was just looking at the difference between a 96 and a 3796, which is the first modern follow-up to the 96.

The 96 sub dial is lower than the 3796. And then the 5196 is even higher. Like, you get to a point where the aesthetics are just ruined by the original design. It just doesn't look like the same thing anymore. That's exactly right. And we're back towards that original design. That's exactly right. So this to me, you know, now I'll have to be careful. I'll have to do my homework before I say Langa makes the best entry-level watch. Yeah. Because the caliber in the 5119, 6119. and now the 6196.

You know, holds a candle to what we're talking about with Lange. But for years, what was in the 5196 was really not at the same level at all. Yeah. And I saw the watch. I like salmon dials, the black and markers. Like, it's just a killer. I mean, this is what a Patek Kalatrava should be. And, you know, Kalatrava...

Travas are probably, nothing's easy to get from Patek, but they're probably among the easier watches to get from Patek. This could change that. Yeah, I got to say, I think a lot of the current Call of Travas just don't. I mean, I don't think they feel like Patek.

Like a lot of the current ones that before the 6196. Like with the texture dial? Yeah, the ones with the texture dial, the sort of that like race car inspired stuff. Like it doesn't seem like a call of trauma to me. You have got to go to the Patek Museum. before you leave yeah i know if you have the time because the calatrava section is like it's insane yeah ben do you want uh two minutes to talk about the what is it 5370 the brown

Might as well. I mean, yeah. So there's a 5370 is a split second paddock. So it's modular based on the watches in the 5170, 5172. When that watch came out in 2013 or so, it was platinum black dial. I remember writing it. I mean, kind of like we're talking about with the Honeygold Odysseus.

I was just like banging away. Like this is the best watch ever. And I basically said this was the best Patek Philippe that has come out in years. And I meant it at the time because it had the case shape of a 1436, not 1463. So the super slim split second, but it was big. Black enamel dial, like what's not to love about that? And Patek produced that watch for so many years that...

It just kind of fell out of favor with collectors because that watch is a $200,000 plus. That's a meaningful purchase no matter who you are. I don't want to say it was overproduced, but they kept it in the catalog for so long that you could kind of get it. and then they they pulled the black dial out and put in a blue dial which i didn't really love it was like a bright blue dial which

Not my thing. And so now that's gone. And now we have it in rose gold with a two-tone brown and cream enamel dial, which changes everything and I think really ups the ante on that watch. Yeah. You're a man of brown, so. I'm a man. I like a brown. guys brown is hot okay like brown is i i yes like not quite brown but

Brown is the look. I think that dial looks, I haven't seen it yet, but it looks gorgeous. It's amazing. And so it's, it's Trompe Levet, like it's a real enamel dial. You know, we were with a, uh, a very well-known independent watchmaker yesterday and he was like, look, there's, there's.

enamel dialing and then there's basically like you basically do a standard plate put some glass over and it looks enamel and the two are not the same and what patek did here is real champlevé multi-tiered you know two different actually It's probably four plates, but two different colors. I mean, it's the real deal stuff. And it's rose gold. So you get a much more kind of vintage-y style split second. I adore that watch. It's still big. I would prefer it was 39 instead of 41. It's still thick.

you know but it is what it is it's a split it's a split exactly but gray watch for sure can i um just drop a random thing in the chat um because we didn't really talk about rolex we talked about land dweller yeah um aside from land weather. I'm into the 1908 on the bracelet. I think it looks really sick. It looks amazing. The bracelet is sick. Like, why haven't we talked about this more yet? Yeah. So here's a little piece of information that I found out recently.

The Platinum 1908 current gen, like the last generation, is impossible to get at retail. Did you know that? I can see that. I believe it. People are dying for it. You know, like Rolex heads. There's some people that will just only buy Rolex. You can't get it. But the new yellow gold on the yellow gold bracelet is amazing. It totally changes. It is amazing. And I think the bracelet.

Even the way it's connected to the watch, I'm like, what is going on here? Isn't two bracelets from Rolex in the same year?

sort of insane. I mean, you have a new bracelet on the Land Roller and a new bracelet on the 1908. What do they call that bracelet, Malaika? Settimo. But I think... Say that again. Settimo. I'm not Italian. I think that... that points to this whole idea of me saying that the brands do actually listen to the consumer oh they do and uh i don't know it works differently to the fashion while they're still wrapping my head around it but um the bracelet thing is a clear indicator to me that that's

They're giving us what we asked for. Also, if there's a criticism to be made of Rolex, it's everything is in the same oyster case and it either comes on Jubilee or Oyster. And this year, like you were saying, you know, they're trying to get people to... get people excited about buying watches, they're offering exactly not that.

in their two lead products look i mean it's it goes without saying but i'll say it anyway rolex is the dominant brand in watches and for the longest time you know people that made dress watches and and technically innovative watches kind of didn't have to worry about rolex you know it's like oh we're over here doing some high-tech We want the nerves, you know, the tan-tans and the bends of the world, so to speak.

And now everyone's got to worry because, like, Rolex, when they do anything, people pay attention. And you're totally right. They're filling out the catalog to have a lot of stuff. And, you know, I said to somebody earlier, it's like, would I buy a Land Dweller? I don't know. I haven't seen it yet. But I'm thinking to myself, like, I already have a Royal Oak.

It kind of feels like a, like, but now that they're, like, directly competing with a Royal Oak, it's insane. Yeah. Right? I mean, like, a Day-Date, which I own, or a Datejust, which I do not own, never, I would never compare them to a Royal Oak, but this watch I really would. If you look at the case shape.

You know, the integrated bracelet, a high-end movement. Yeah. You're competing with Nautilus, Royal Oak, etc. Yeah. I mean, not to be movement guy, but, like, in two meetings yesterday with independent watchmakers, Kari Vutsalainen and Recep, both said... this escapement might change the whole watch world. So like, that's what this is. That's why I focus the story. I talk about it a lot, but you know, you got to listen to stuff like that.

I'm here for the 1908. I think it's really classy. Did you say classy? Yeah, classy. Classy? Classy. Yeah. I think it's classy. I'm into the black dial more, I would say, than white dial. But I'm... paying more attention to that now when's the last time rolex has done a straight ending bracelet like the 40s right like that little gap in between the case that's kind of crazy thanks to whatever commenter mentioned that and pointed that out to me this morning i say oh

That's pretty cool. Well, I feel like for years, the idea was that Rolex was one of the few brands that even though they didn't make an integrated bracelet, they saw basically the case and the bracelet as one object. The watch was a thing. That's why it's so hard to buy or replace.

jubilee for an oyster all that they just don't want you to mess with it and for them to come out with this that changes the whole sort of perception of like what they see a bracelet as and then you go to the opposite right with the land dweller where if you look on the back of it the spring bar is tiny right so it's you're seeing all these like different ways of approaching a bracelet this year just like you said that I think from an engineering perspective I'm also really interested in like

What are these assembly lines looking like to actually switch over? And how far in advance do you actually have to gear up so much machinery in such a different way? That's not easy to do. With this, Bloomberg had a great story. I give them a lot of credit.

the designers of the Landweller. They said something like five to seven years for this. Incredible. But with that, we have to wrap it up because I'm getting the look from our man, Dave. So today we are seeing two, well, we've already seen a few, but we're seeing Cartier. for this one. Can't wait. And Tudor for the whole gang. So Tudor and Cartier feedback will be coming tomorrow. Pretty psyched about that. And stay tuned to Herdinky. We've already published like...

way too many stories. Like how many stories? It just leaves us time to get drunk for the rest of the week. Yeah, this is just a party. That's all we do. We definitely don't work. But tune in tomorrow. We'll see you then. See you guys.

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