Good morning again. Welcome to the Green Country Gardener Program with our expert Larry Glass. Stay doomed for a free hour of fun and free advice to make that garden and that lawn look great. The Green Country Gardener Program is brought to you by Green Thumb, Nurse Reasing, Greenhouse, Peter, True Value Hardware, Kelly Banks Tree Service, and United Retolds. Good morning, good morning, good morning. It's eight or nine time for the Green Country Gardener
Program. Hopefully you're having a good Saturday morning so far. We've got Larry Glass in here with us. If you have any calls for us nine eight three three six one four zero zero, or you could reach us at one one hundred and seven for nine at five nine three six Larry A long time, no see how we're doing fine? Good morning, hey goalie. This is an active time the garden and it's time to plant those perennials. Annuals in the garden. They give you color pretty much all summer long. Really,
your annuals did punges and pair winkles and stuff like that. Kind of early for para winkles though, because they like a sort of a bit on the hot site. We haven't had a whole lot of heat lately. It seems. Oh, I don't know, yesterday was pretty steamy. I thought, oh, that was kind of warm. I guess, okay, it's like I've I've been through warmer. But anyway, it's it's yeah, and
thank goodness for the moisture cheez. We really needed that. It is also important to prepare the soil properly also, and usually when you hire us to do something, we'd be a big old bunch of composts out and work it up in this oil mixed for summers, good dirt. Absolutely, I have to plant this, this rather large holly tree. It was too it yesterday to plant it, and it's probably too today also, but I'm going to
give it the old college try. Oh that's all you can ever do with life today, and give it a good, good planting, if you will. Lots of pete moss when you plant to holly, so where we'll be
bringing out some peate moths. They like kind of a little pH. So it's in an area where the sub material is a limestone calcium carbonate, and you know what happens with that raises the pH So, all right, try to counteract that as much as possible, and a little pete moths helps it breed too, But you have to use your soil amendments, you know, judiciously improperly, because there are some cases when you don't want to use pete moths, depending on the variety of plant okay, like hostas and whatnot.
Hostas, yeah, they like a neutral to slightly alkaline pH and so you don't want to. I would use a compost instead, or maybe even a neutralized potting soil for that. And most of your annuals need to about a neutral pH. You can plant them in about anything and the other just fine. But to get a big old sacker compost and throwing the back of the
car, it'll do just fine. I do that at home too, use a lot about a composts in the soil, and it uses a lot of leaves and things that chop up with the old snapper and throw them in there and work them into the soil throughout the winter of course, and golli I dug up in there the other day. This is ready to go. It's
beautiful stuff. So anyway, don't forget to fertilize also, not only initially, but ongoing too, because they're not indigenous to the area, and for them to produce all those blooms takes a tremendous amount of energy, so you want to make sure that they're well fertilized throughout the sturmer as well. Several ways you can do that use say, like I said earlier, a compost which kind of decomposes and as it does and makes the nutrients available. Or
you can use something like ozma coat. Kind of an expensive way to do it, but it waters for you know, months at a time, so initial investments a little high with it, but it pays off in the long run. That or just a good garden for the list or two okay, like a miracle grow or something will work very well on an ongoing basis to keep them going. And mulch is very important because it is going to get hot and it's going to get dry again. So going buy the nurser,
pick up the mulch, get some mulch too. We have a very fine grade of cedar mulch in the bags and we put down some down for a customer and they go, wow, that's nicely good stuff, and it is. It's a it's in the bag and it's a ground up real nice. It makes a good texture on the surface anyway. Look at the quality of the multi two as well, So don't get slickered in, but buy it a bunch. It's bad stuff. That stuff favorite. Yeah, sener mulch
is my favorite. It lasts a lot longer too that it's kind of pretty going in. Another thing to coming in is, of course the weeds, and the multis helped control that quite a bit, and pre emergent herb sides
help a lot too. I don't like to use them too much. The pre emergent urban side have a tendency to somewhat act as a soil sterilns if they're overused, and your your annuals and perennials suffer the growth heartiness and all that because of overuse of pre emergent urban sides, So be very careful with them because they can kind of recharge the growth of your annuals and perennials and
not be as showy as possible. So probably a good, good old thick layer of multi is one of the best things to use for a weed control in the garden. Smells too, sometimes smells really good when we first pat down too. Also timed the bermuda grass. I put my run out last weekend when starting to rain, yeah, or whenever it was the first rain we had with my fertilizer spreader, put down my ten twenty ten for the ramuda graph. It's it's kind of waking up a little bit, coming to
life a little bit. Yeah, that and the weeds. I kind of put off putting a pretty emergent down just because of the stretch factor on the grass at this point, so I didn't do it. Now I'll get the crab grass. So yes, that's rough, so well, so what hey, you know there is such a thing as quinn COLOROQ and it'll take care of it pretty well. Anyway, it's time to fertilize that FORMU this weekend.
I gotta put on the nitrogen just as small application, and some iron sulfid to help to help the color of it too, so and probably pull a lot of weeds. But anyway, also, um, it's system consecticide on your zealous for lace bug prevention is a good idea right now, okay. And I've seen a lot of cases of borers on trees really yeah, a lot of them, and you can you can deal it. It's borers because typically the holes in the tree are associated with the south and the west
side of the tree. And I was at a house yesterday and they had an oak tree looking ritt and I'm looking a little bit on the Yellow side of Sydney. Some iron didn't looked at it again and said this, you've got borers in it. So a little bit of spin as add in some mediclo pridge that take care of them. But still you've got to kind of
watch that real carefully. There's a newly planet of trees there. They're under a lot of stress because they've lost a lot of the root system and they're recovering from that being in the container or whatever, and they need they need a little fertilizer too, And don't I don't stretch them out, but don't water them too much because root rot is the biggest problem we have with people losing those trees. It's riding on the roots from too much water. So
let the surface of the water dry out between the water rings. When you're on your newly planted trees, you should do just fine. It doesn't hurt them to wilt a little bit, just let it dry out a little bit, dry a little bit. And uh. And when whenever I planted something, I planned a dogwoo tree in my yard. The poor thing looked like it was a dish ragon of wind. So you, yeah, you picking up the pail right now, put it down, and and then it watered
it a little bit. It came up. Now it's it's it's on its own. There was a transplant from the front of the house that I moved to the back of somebody planted it two feet away from the house. Come on, get out of here. And it's goodly. It's two stories soul now and you can't see the blooms because they're too Oh no, but anyway it is. I never watered that thing. It just gets enough from from the drip system from the from the flowers and things, so it does okay.
So anyway, I'd be careful not to overwater your plants too. Yeah, And going back to your initial thought, you're talking about insecticides to prevent lace bugs. We talked about bars. What are some preventatives for maybe some pasts for azaleas zalius. Well, that's the lace bugs. It's a primary piss they get. They also get scale and the emiticaloprid will take care of both of them. Really. Now, the amitical operator works for insects per
se, it really won't work for spider mites. Spider mites are a bit of a problem on your box woods and your jennifers and things like that. But the emiticalrprid doesn't work on that very well because it targets the physiology of the insect, but not necessarily an arachnid. Okay, so we have a different set of rules for arachnids, if you will one are the rules you want to That's where the spinazade comes in. It's a topical application of spinazad.
You used to be able to use disiston, but it's not available anymore, gotcha. So but anyway, it works pretty well. Also spider mightes. Just soapy water works well too. Just occasional application of silpy water bowl smother them out. Okay, how how would you say occasional? So you do it once? And how long would you know? There's some variability and that equation? Really, however you feel the occasional gestation period on a mike
is about three days? Okay, so if you do maybe are we a four or five day application should take care of them, okay, and then you get the you're gonna have some You just want to get the populations under control, and so you got to stay ahead of the game. What I like to use is a hos in sprayer and some dish soap and just straight down. Don't do it during the heat of the day, and don't don't get it too concentrated, because it can cause problems if you have too much
soap. You know what My next question is going to be, what how much do we No no, no, I was gonna say, what brand of dish soap? Don? Well? Don works really well, it's kind of a universal thing. Yeah, we planted up some of the US yesterday and we used the dawn dish soap and the surfactants and that team to act a little better than off the shelf cheapo stuff. So we've had good luck with that. In integrating water into peatmos, that's another thing when you're planning
is use you have to plant them in pea moths. Pemoths has a negative electrical charge to it, as does water has a negative charge, so the surfactant changes the charge in the water to the positive and the souks it up for up. Yeah. So anyway, so a surfactant to motherwoods. We do have anionic surfactan at the at the nursery too, a little bottle to put them there too. So it's highly highly concentrated and it doesn't take a
lot. It seems like it's spending a lot of money, but it just takes a few drops to change that charge in the water, if you will. Um and sticking with the zalea is real quick time to print them right. No, No, they really haven't bloomed a whole lot yet. Okay. Yeah, you're looking at a dialogue that it's based on the calendar, but we can't follow the calendar per se. No, I wouldn't unless your
zealous have completely bloomed. I wouldn't prove them yet, okay, because sometimes some of them are late bloomers too, and we're a little bit late this time of year this year, so anyway, so typically after they bloom is the best time. And from a time standpoint, typically the middle of May is a good time to punting them back. You have all the way between now and middle of May and the middle of July. Once July comes in the day links started getting a little bit shorter, and that's a signal for
them to generate blooms. So so you don't want to prove them after that, right, Yeah, so cut back from trying not to cut them back into August late July. But in this timeframe it's fine, okay, So don't prune. Well, it depends on if they've already bloom. Yeah, but some of the late bloomers. Yeah, yeah, you just can't say general across the board. I would say probably the end of the month be
a good good time too. Well, when that's coming up on as fast too, it seems like, I know, God, the times just flying um And I know we talked about craipe myrtles a little bit before the show started because I have some of my house. Uh what should mean to be doing for those? Well, I trained my crape myrtle back last weekend. I have one in the front yard and it's rather tall actually, and I turned back to some of the dead woods on it. Got that done,
then I'll look at it, evaluate and cut of backs. And we got some time to do that. They differentiate in June, so middle June, so we got a little bit of time to train them back like a month. Yeah, a lot of time. I mean, it doesn't seem like it. And I see so many times they did this Neanderthal haircut on it, just straight across the word. And then you get a fairly thin veneer
of blooms. You want to stagger the height that the cuts, some of them lower, some of them higher, so you get more vertical blooming associations. You don't have a better shew that way, okay. And also the ten twenty ten will work really well right now. It's got a phosphor sent it and that helps the color of the crat mortles as well. Cra Myrtles do like a very very slightly acid soil pH a little bit lower, that's
all. You might want to add some aluminium and magnesium or iron sulfate to the soil too to help maintain a low pH unless your soil is naturally lower. I know a lot of people have a lot of limestone under their under their soil, and the pH tens are run a little bit on the high side. So if they're not blooming well and they're not vigorous, you see some veins and colored veins in the leaves and other or some yellowing other leaves
with green around the veins. Chances all your pH is just a little bit on the low side or high side rather, and you need to lower that p a little bit. Okay. Leaf size is also an indicator to leaves are extraordinarily small, then smaller than it should be. Then your page might be a little bit on a highsight too, So watch that pH Yeah, gotcha, Okay. Cool As are the same way. You can tell if your PhD is getting too high. You have a very short node length,
and you also have smaller, very smaller leader. They get successfully smaller as they go. That means it's a plant. It's adapting to the soil conditions, unfavorable conditions, and trying to survive. So, just as a fertilizer, we're probable for a well, Larry, we should probably take a quick break, real quick. We'll be right back with the Green Country Gardener program. It's eight twenty four. We'll list those numbers to call here in just
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Welcome back to the Green Cutchery Gardener Program live on K one the One You Trust, also on KGGF the mighty six ninety up in Coffeeville, Kansas.
Thank you all for listening all across northeast Oklahoma southeast Kansas. If you have any questions for Larry when it comes to the garden or any landscaping or any questions like that, you can reach us at nine one eight three three six one four zero zero or that toll free number one eight hundred seven four nine five nine three six And Larry, we've covered quite a few topics about
what's going on now, what we should be doing in the garden. You do have a groundfall opportunity right now to control the scale insects on crape myrtles. What does a scale insect? Look very closely at your crape myrtle plant and look at the stem, and if there are a whole lot of little
white specs on it, those are scale insects. The scale insects so will be starting to emerge from the ground here pretty soon, and they become a bit of a problem, and they actually suck out the juices at the plant and it makes it a difficult for the plant to survive, and it'll actually kill a great myrtle plant because so that they just draw it out so bad
and they exude a honeydew. There's a sugary substance, and the ants really like it and they and together with that our eggs in there and the ants carry the eggs around and so on. It's interesting, very good adaptive strategy on their part. Let's admire them for their efforts. But but yeah, there's we don't like it on our great myrtles. No, no scale. Once they get going scale, it is extremely up to control. They have
an exoskeleton or all the that's somewhat impenetrable and it's difficult to control. So we use the systemic to work from within, okay, and to kill from the inside out. Yeah, medicalprid. It's a nicotenoid. And if to stop some synaptic function on the insects specifically, say that one more time. What was it? What the what? You use the nicotenoid or a medicaloprid okay, And it's what we call the nicotenoid, and it prevents synaptic function
in the nervous system. We shut down. Yeah, they shut down, so all right, sorry, that's kind of yeah, I want that shut It's easy to apply. You you put it into a bucket of water imported on the ground and the molecule and it's a material is small enough for the plant to absorb and its controls the insects that way. Okay, So anyway, the socience. So if you if you have if you have some createmurbles and you have had some problems with the scale insects, then you want to
do something to control them. And that's a good way to do it. It's kind of a set it and forget it kind of way, and it lasts about twelve months. Really, it has a long lasting effect on it too, so it's more value in it also, maybe a little more expensive initially, but you have more value in it as well. And be very careful using it around the planets that butterflies like. Okay, it will affect the butterflies as well, so I could eat butterfly or anything like that.
So that's why you want to do a specific application something that like auld createmrdle or something which butterflies really could care less about. Yeah, and that's another thing. The bag worms are going to be here coming pretty soon. There's
a little tiny little bags to hang on your junior person things. I prefer to use a BT or basiluster genesis on that it's a bacteria culture that the insects heat as a similar effect as the amaticloprid, but it's a it's a topical application, and it they just kind of lose interest in needing it,
they stop and die out. So any on, your jennifers, it's time to think about that because they'll be around really really soon and usually when we have some stressful weather in the winter or say the summer before the populations or just just go bananas. It wasn't too bad last year if we had just a few select plants here and there that we're really just heavily infested with them. But that doesn't mean it's going to be a you know, a good
year for them this year. So the BT works for will really well to control that. But you must be early with the application and be very observant too, and you go out and get the mail, look closely at your juniper plants and see if they have these bagworms on them yet, get the magnifying glass out everything, because they'll be really small to begin with. Ye So anyway, so bagworms are coming on, so get ready for that too. And the BT works really well to control them, and it has a
long lasting effect because it's not it doesn't work like other things. This is a bacterial culture and it works very well to control them that way, and it has some good residual effect too. It takes a heck up a rainstorm to get it off the tree, especially if you use a spreader, sticker or surfactant, it makes it stick onto the plant a little better. So you might also want to consider getting a surfactant or some sofy water together when
you do your application to control the bagworms. So that's fun up too. I'm gonna get all this stuff. Geez, I know it's a lot. We talked about mice and bag let's talk about good stuff now. If you're listening, take notes, get out of pencil and a pad. Okay, Also, on your roses, time to give them some fertilizer. We've had people come in the roses didn't make it through the winter and ask them how
closely associated are the needles on your on your rose plants. Thorns are really really close together, and it sounds like you had Rosette's disease on your rose plants. Oh really? Yeah? And if the if the growth was kind of curly and the roses are distorted, and you've got a whole lot of close and branching on it and just hundreds of needles specific to a certain area of the plants, and you've got what we call Rosette's disease. And you
can slow down the spread of that by pruning it. But it's it's in deplaned. It's a virus, okay, at least a plat virus and spread by a mite. Gotcha, there's really no bringing it back sometimes when that happens. So plants that I found that the roses that don't get it specifically are ones that the mites are not attracted to. So those that are planning to stay away from boxwoods or junipers that are some distance away from those and
typically where they don't get a lot of hot afterning sun. Keep in mind, what's what spider mites really like, and it is a lot of warmth and they like those two species of plants are a little box woods and junipers. So okay, So trying not to blund I have some knockouts on the north side of out. They're blooming right now on the north side of out, so it didn't find they've been there for years. They don't have to knock the knockout the rose's disease because they might just don't like them in an
environment. All right, so cool, So those are the roses. The roses, um uh, go ahead. Clematis were able to say half same frequency, Larry, that the clematis fines are blooming. They're a little late this year, but they're blooming, and their their bloom show. It's going to be spread out a little bit more. It might not be is intense this year, but they're gonna put it on a show. We have a good selection of falmattist fines at the nursery too, so they come check them
out. Yeah. They they bloom in the spring and early summer, and they don't like hot feet. So you can plant them in the sun, which you might want to plant something in front of them so the soil doesn't get so hot. It's just an odd thing with this particular plant that it will grow, say on the west side of a house or somewhere, but it doesn't like an overly warm root system. It's a remember the nunky lacier family that might have some reason for that. But anyway, what would you
prefer or would you recommend people playing in front of the chlemaptus. I'd like to use a dwarf. Dwarf nandina, a small plant gets probably about knee higher, so okay, and it gets a good fall color, and it doesn't attract insects because they don't like it. I don't know if any insect that likes nandina plants, the dwarf nandinas because the fall color, or discuss just because of the because they don't like them. It's like ah fall yeah.
Nandina's are a member of the barbary family, and as you know as barbary, as mahoney as, they all share that same attribute and the connection on the different varieties of a barbarous or barbary or the yellow wood down below the bark. You scratch it and it's a bright yellow color, okay, And the mahoneius have that, which is one plant and the barbers have it, and then ndinas share the same attribute. So and the bugs just simply
don't like those three types of plants. I could see it in my head now, the commands with the yeah, yeah, and the follow you get the good color too, and you get the insect resistance to the nandinus and some one, so good plant, the good association, if you will, and they stay small so you can see it still doesn't matter. It doesn't get huge and cover it up. There's no work involved, of an other words, yeah, just let it go, let it do, let doing
so anyway, that's a good association or of the two. Another thing that ponies are just about out of bloom right now. They're in full bloom, okay. And of course every time they bloom, the rains never. Never, every single year when the ponies and bloom, we have these hard rains. So no, no, really happens every year. Come on. Not much to do with them, really, you when the flowers eye off, we just cut them off and they're just sort of green there for the rest
of the summer. There are Peonese societies actually they kind of grow these plants and so, but they only blew a brief trade during the year. So I wouldn't make a mainstay of it. Put it in a place where, yeah you can see it in the spring, but I don't. Don't make it a highlight plant. Just put it and they get really tall. Just
kind of put it in the back of the garden somewhere. If you're gonna put if you have an annual bay, to put it in the back somewhere, because when the blooms are really really nice, there's big, big blossoms on them. And there's an old wife tail that says you must have ants for them to open up. But no, no, it's not true. They have a lot of sugars in their in their in their sap, if
you will. When the flowers and the ants are attracted to that gotchas so they would have passed over the years that they own open unless you have ants. So that's why it shows you that it has sugar. Yeah, okay, I understood. It's the marker and they bloom just this once a year. There are several varieties, you know, colors and all that, and there are several types. There's a Japanese one that I have in my backyard. Blooms yellow over your beautiful thing. Don't blink though, oh I blinked.
Don't leave town and have the camera ready. But but that one is the Japanese right, it's more expensive, but it's it's it's what they call a tree peony, and it is more resistant to bacterial leaf spot. That's one serious thing that peon needs to get during the course of the summer, especially if they're in an area where it doesn't get enough air circulation, you get a problem with bacterial leaf spot on your ponies. And that's the only
way to control that is listen. Let's chutomyacin. Fungicide won't work because the bacteria is not a fundi. So we do. We do have some horticulturals trip tomas and that will stop that from happening, and it can make them somewhat unattractive, especially if they're in a you know, a prominent play place in the landscape. You want to stop that from happening. And typically that
occurs when the nine time temperature to get above sixty five degrees. Okay, um, Larry, I think we might be due for another break here on the Green Country Gardener. We will take one now it's eight thirty eight. List those numbers when we come back. Thank you for listening. Anniversary coming
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We love Bartlesville Radio. Every time we advertise we always have a big boost in business as radio gets results. Radio that's radial. Well, I'm on to pick up some of these empties loads as soon as a fun Welcome back to the Green Country Gardener. I'm your host for today, Garrett Giles.
We got Larry Glass in here with us. If you have any caller, if you have any questions for Larry you want to call in, you can reach us at nine one eight three three six one four zero zero, or you could reach us at that toll free number one eight hundred seven four nine five at nine three to six. You could be caller number one today. We'd love to hear from you again with your gardening questions. And Larry,
let's talk about some perennials. Perennials. The hostes are up. I've got this little little area between the shed and the house in order to I've built the shed just to meet codes as far as i mean ordinates right here. Yeah, good, there's a little pathway between the shed and the house. I'm both flanked with that or some perennial beds and hostess and Kellie overnight. They're just up. It's amazing anyway. Hosts are up and doing really
well. They really like this rain due got that. You get a little bit of rain and they just they just pop life, popo, living water. But they're up and doing well, and you want to put a little course stands saw us around them. They're deterred. The slugs. Slugs are a big problem with them there. They're really big old juicy leaves and they really like that. So you can control the slugs slugs with us and sands and sawdust. They don't it tickles their little toes and they don't like that,
so they kind of stay away from there. There's also slug baits and everything else you can use to to control them. So shalbugs maybe maybe a bit of a problem with the riots and that's where the sal bugs are attracted to the slug bait too. Salbugs are they're actually kind of a shrimp, kind of a plant animal. They're not a truly insect there, shrimp, but what a crustacean crustacean crustation. Yeah, so that's cool, Yeah, pretty good boiled up. You know. I'll get the pot so so we
can control them that. We can control them with a bait, or you can use just some sawdust or something around here help control them. They said they don't feel to vol in that area right there. So they're doing quite well. And the perennials are doing coming up to the elephant ears and my elephant eris are coming up, and the cannads are coming up to kind of a tough winter on a lot of things. And I noticed a bit of a thinning on the mechanas and the elephant ares, but they'll come back pretty
soon. And another thing in the wintertime that caused some problems. It was rather dry this last winter, and it caused a lot of stressing people's Japanese maples to the point where a lot of people lost them. And it just simply a matter of not having any water. And we planted a tree before the rain hit and the ground was just just absolutely bone dry. We had just a little bit of moisture, but below that just desert, just dust
came out and as no wonder, these plants didn't make it. And I was working on a drip system for the yard this year, and and all the testing and experimenting, I managed to keep my plants pretty well watered this winter good, so they made it just fine. But that's that's an important factor, not only in your perennials for them to come up real good and all that is uh, and for your trees and your shrubs. Also they
have adequate moisture and through even throughout the winter. And this year is a good proof that they see rows of boxwoods and some of them are just dead. And the box swords are extremely cold hearty, but they just cannot stand the dryness and glia. I just see rows of them just dead because they
dried out in the winter, just just too dry. And also they're closer planets, fairly close to the house for the most part, and you have an eve on the house, the very whipped and all that, and you can tell the ones that are on a house where they were a wide eve frof on it. They there's no atmospheric water coming down to it. You have to artificially water them in order for them to survive. And they really suffered this last this last winter in the cold, and some of them even
out in the open. But you wouldn't expect it to happen. It just happened. And I had a customer who'd actually dug his up. I admire him greatly for doing that. He's in his eighties and he's out there with a shovel and the heat. They needs some boxwoods up. Wow. And the wrist system just went down just very shadow. And that's because the soil down below there was too heavy. So it all comes down to the soil
prep and slow preparation. And also these are on kind of a raised a mound, if you will, and that exposes more surface area to the cold and it drives out faster. So something thing about so that. Yeah, So anyway, boxwoods, Uh, they don't like to When we had that real cold spell oh years and years ago, it got down to I think what four five hundred degrees below zero? Yeah, I mean water meters were
frozen all over time. Is that cold? Wow. There. It was associated with some precipitation prior to that happening, and the moisture level was good in the soil. The boxwoods and heavy problems. M what was this, Oh, I think it's before you were oh years ago, and it was okay, so that would have been carry the one twenty of eight and it
was. But anyway, and that one, yeah, I remember that it was really really cold and call and I actually got a call on the Christmas day her water meter was had ruptured and wanted me to the customer we had we did irrigation for and uh. I went out there with my water key and shut off for water. She was burbling up out of the ground running down the street. Oh boy, and she, you know, thank me
for coming out and all that. No problem. But anyway, but that year when it got really cold, yes, there was some damage on some box woods, but those are the ones that were not didn't get the advantage of the snow with the moisture. So it's very important to apply a mulch in the fall to help moderate the valleys and valleys or valleys and peaks rather than moisture. To try to keep the moisture level constant and to help moderate
the soil temperature as well. So it's a good investment really, it could save a lot of money on the plants. Oh yeah. And also when you're doing a planter beds, try to make them fairly level, if you will, just so it doesn't doesn't blow away in someone. Okay. So anyway, that's kind of what happened with a lot of plants this winter. And even these big Japanese maples that have been in the ground for years just died out because they're they're not a desert plant by all names. They they
don't they don't tolerate the extreme drought. So to make sure that your plants are well watered into the winter. Okay, uh, Larry, I know you said you wanted to talk about some draniums too. Okay, lets try to get to that. Geraniums are one of the most popular declarative plants for indoor and outdoor use. They are kind of two different times or the genre of draining. This showy flowering geraniums normally grown indoors or outdoors on planter boxes
and stuff. And then there's a the finding geraniums to the two types of geraniums over there and then do really quite well here in our soil in our area, and they give you blooms off summer one. Some people just absolutely love their geraniums. The important thing is just ground prep and they do like a slightly lower soil pH. Two. And our soil here tends to be alkaline. As I say over and over again, it gets a bit on the alkaline side, So you want to do your ground prep real well.
It wouldn't hurt to add a little line or sulfate or just just some miracle grow or something to the ground that will help maintain a proper soil pH and help them bloom along too. Fertilizer with the emphasis on phosphorus or something that says blooming type fertilizer. You see some of the neighborhood of a say of a five and forty eight and you know thirty or something on your furtilights of ratios, that's a lot of you know, first absolutely that helps them bloom.
Larry, we do have a caller on the line. Okay, let's go ahead and take that. Then we'll take a break. Good morning. You're on the Green Country Garder program. Is that what happened to my apple? Tree. It started to gloom just before we had that last frost, and now it's just like dead. No leaves, no nothing. That's probably what happened. It might have gotten you too cold, but apple trees are very very hearty way up north. What you want to do on your apple
tree's look on the west side of the trunk. Look at the trunk real closely on the west side, and get out your pocket knipe and see if the bark peels off. And that's on the California side of it. I guess west side. Yea, and that'll you might have had some borders in it. Oh no, it looks fine and everything. I just put some more molt on it. It's intacted me that dude. Yeah, the barkers intact and everything else. Oh you're last year, it gave me pounds and
pounds of apples. I shared them with everybody. Right, Are the leaves coming out of it? Okay? Nothing? Nothing. It could have gotten freeze damage. Yes, it's probably gone, yes, but yeah dead yeah so um yeah. If it the least came out and it died like that, there's something wrong in the stem or the root of the plant. Another apple tree. Oh, apple trees do fine here, Yes, but you
want to mulch it in real heavily going into the winter. Oh okay, Yeah, without really looking at it and without really cutting cutting some of the wood and seeing what's going on down below the barker's difficult make a diagnosis. But it sounds like it could be either borers in it, or it could be a freeze damage, or it could be a stamp virus of some kind. Yeah, I have to kind of take a pocket knife and cut into the wood and see if you see any any vertical straiations of darker color or
not. Um, it sounds like I need to read a live area books on apple tree. Apple trees do well here. They do like a good drainage And it could be anything. It could be grafting compatibility too. If there's a rather large bulge at the ground where the rit meets the top, it could be some grafting compatibility as well. But to me, to me, it sounds like and it would be okay to try another apple tree for sure, no problem. But it sounds to me like you might have a
borer problem. But it's time to give us on it. Well, yeah, if it's if it's all the leaves are dead on it. It's not going to do anything. Yes, Now the George apple tree, it's doing fine. It's covered in leaves. Okay, but that's the semi George. And then and it's at the other end of the yard. Well, you have a very specific problem with that one tree. And they are both out
in a similar environment, so it's probably another environmental problem. It's something specific to that tree, so you want to look very closely for border damage on that. That would be my prime consideration. Okay, thank you so much. All right, thanks thanks for calling. We're gonna take a quick break. We'll beer back. Spring is here at green thunnurs You in Greenhouses and green Thumb Nurse You and Greenhouses has new shipments of annuals, greeneos, herbs,
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weather coverage. Who do I call to get my trees trimmed? Kelly Banks Tree Service? Who can grind up these stumps in my yard? Kelly Banks Tree Service. There's a dead tree right by my house and I'm nervous it might fall were you better call Kelly Banks Tree Service. What's that number? It's nine one eight three three five seven thousand. It's nine one eight three five seven zero zero zero calling today for your tree trimming, stump grinding and
tree removal needs. That's nine one eight three three five seven zero zero zero nine one eight three five seven thousand. Don't even wants. Welcome back to the Green Country Gardener program. We got Larry Glass with us. We are running out of time quickly and we do have one more break to get to. But Larry, we were talking about geraniums right, we hadn't lost color. There are just your pelgoniums, your regular Martha Washington geraniums often sold US
indoor plants because they usually not a he tolerant to other ganeum. But anyway, the ones we have the nursery JUSTUS geranium geraniums. We also have ivy leaf or trailing geraniums, kind of pretty. The leaves kind of hang down and get these flowers on them, and hanging basket too. They do good on the say, retaining wall. They kind of hang over the edge two or place for around rocks. And that they're kind of cool too. Cented
geraniums, yeah, have ornamental leaves that trail and uh wedment. No, the centeneraniums are prized for their fully aromas, not much for the flowers. You know, there's kind of usually kind of spars and all that, but they sort of they sort of resemble a journium, but they're just a good durable plant to put it in a basket or something. And the smell is kind of enough too. The mosquito geranium too. I don't know if we
have any of these yet, but I'm sure they're on their way. By introducing the gene from the citrone plant into the geranium, they were able to get that mosquito geranium in there, and they don't like them too well. It helps keep keep the mosquitoes. The way out of taking to really be effective that you want to go out and kind of rub the leaves a little bit before your guests survived, so keep them mosquitoes away, right, Okay, So so those are kind of the varieties of journiums you can get too.
So anyway, geraniums are of welcome edition in the in the landscape that they have blooms and flowers, and they do, they smell good and they help keep away mosquitoes, so they're pretty good plants they have around the house. Really absolutely thank you for sharing with us on geraniums. Will be right back after this message. In nineteen thirty, Frank Phillips received a very special
gift from some very dear friends. During a ceremony surrounded by fifteen hundred guests, Frank was adopted into the Osage tribe by Chief Fred Lookout and given the name of Eagle Chief by the Osage. This marked the first time that the Osage had ever adopted a white person into their tribe. Chief Lookout gave the newest Osage chief the gift of a pony, a saddle and a single eagle feather. The saddle had been in Lookout's family for over a hundred years.
Frank Phillips received a telegram from a famous man and dear friends saying sorry, I can't make it. The Osage were always the smartest Indians in America. There are one hundred and twenty million white men, and they pick out the best one to make an Osage chief. Best regards to all o Sages, including Frank from the Renegade Cherokee Will Rogers. That kind of magic still happens every day at Wallerock. Welcome home to waller Rock, build upon a solid
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dot com for full disclaimer. That's Roman's Outdoor Power. You're comboted dealer in Bartlesfield, Independence or online at okikiboda dot com. This is Tim Hazelwood. Join me every Tuesday at twelve thirty as we pray for our city and come together to learn truth from God's word and to focus our attention on Jesus. Every Tuesday twelve thirty right here on K one AM, fourteen FM ninety three
point three and ninety five point one. Join us for prey for our city, brought to you by tim and sheet Metal, and that's gonna do it just about for the Green Country. Gard Larry, Where can people find you? We're on no Otter Road, halfway between Madison and Washington Boulevard, on the south side of the road. Keep that shottle sharp. We will see you next week. Now serving the Osage region of Partlesville, Pahuska, and
Barnsdall. This is k w O N. Bartlesville, K two twenty seven, CQ Bartlesville, HE two thirty six
