Today we swing back to the business of fashion and my guest is Amanda Lee McCarty, producer of the Clotheshorse podcast and Instagram. With her own experience in the business to draw on, Amanda goes deep into the world of decoding and demystifying the world of fashion, both fast and slow. We cover a wide range of topics in our chat and also call out many of the moves the fast fashion companies use to entice us into consumerism. You can find Amanda's Clotheshorse podcast on all the usual apps and...
Jan 28, 2022•1 hr 22 min•Season 4Ep. 1
By popular demand, the garmsmen gather again for the now traditional Yuletide festive episode. Shaun and Jon join Nick for a wide-ranging chat about men's (lack of) fashion, bungled costumes in TV drama, finding rare tweed in Russia, Jons obsession with leathergoods, Shaun's obsession with comfy shoes, when a brand loses its way, what real farmers vs faux country gents wear and what is designer clothes anyway? Described by Gentleman's Quarterly as "A laidback and comfortably paced chat perfect f...
Dec 24, 2021•2 hr 1 min•Season 3Ep. 16
Today Norwegian journalist and sustainable fashion advocate Tone Skårdal Tobiasson guests the pod to talk about wool, other fibres, the issue at hand and the initiatives pointing forward. Tone's career has seen her quite dramatically change sides of the fashion table, going from being a fashion magazine editor to being one of the countries most vocal critics of the industry. We start out talking mainly about how great wool is, then we go into darker places and learn some hard truths. Link to som...
Dec 17, 2021•1 hr 6 min•Season 3Ep. 15
The Heritage Post magazine is celebrating 10 years of publication and writer Mathias Lösel drops in to talk about gentleman culture, denim and tweed, subcultures, individuality and rugged guys, that Florian Schneider cover, Churchill and how they work on expanding the minds of their readers. Find The Heritage Post on the web here and on Instagram as @theheritagepost . The free English edition of the latest issue is here . Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and e...
Dec 10, 2021•1 hr 24 min•Season 3Ep. 14
This week designer Cristiano Berto drops in to talk about his years in Italian fashion design, his early inspiration from American styles, meeting Massimo Osti back in the day, making clothes that work together and don't expire when fashion changes, finding joy in fabrics and their makers, finding success in Japan and how to him sustainability also includes treating both suppliers and customers with respect. You can find Cristiano and Sylvia on the web at 1stpat-rn.it and on Instagram as @1stpat...
Dec 03, 2021•1 hr 44 min•Season 3Ep. 13
This week my guest, sustainability and fashion writer Melissa Watts, takes me down the primrose path of fast fashion and the problem of sustainability. We talk about the fast fashion pulled a fast one with their Higgs index, how the science of marketing is making consumers take on the industry's guilt, the problem of agreeing on some actual numbers and facts, the recent trauma porn landfills of garment waste in Ghana and Chile and the frustration of campaigning in echo chambers. You can find Mel...
Nov 26, 2021•1 hr 31 min•Season 3Ep. 12
In a quest to lighten the mood a bit, fashion historian and national esthetician Ragnhild Brochmann visits the pod this week to talk about historical peacockery, why teens have more fun, revisiting your younger self, the codes of accessories, how the 1940s had the best garment, why finding your style isn't the way to go and much more! Ragnhild writes a weekly column for the Norwegian newspaper Morgenbladet , she is also on Instagram ! You can watch Ragnhild and Nick on "God Morgen Norge" here (N...
Nov 19, 2021•1 hr 53 min•Season 3Ep. 11
This week Neil Christopher stops by for a chat. Neil is known from underground legend ARN Mercantile, as well as being a sought after chap from all manner of companies. With a career starting in an unlikely and random way and pretty much continuing in the same vein, we get into the ethics of the industry, what needs to change, the business of making proper clothes, keeping your footprint minimal, why Red Wing soles are worse than they used to be, and the predictable topics of fast fashion and tr...
Nov 12, 2021•1 hr 59 min•Season 3Ep. 10
This week Richard Ince is my guest. Richard is the sixth generation Ince making umbrellas in the family firm. James Ince Umbrellas has been making their wares in London since 1805, a whopping 215 years. We talk about how the industry has changed, how umbrellas have evolved, having faith in your product, flamboyancy and sustainability. Find James Ince Umbrellas on Instagram as @inceumbrellas and check James Ince Umbrellas website . Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid ...
Nov 05, 2021•1 hr 2 min•Season 3Ep. 9
This week Mohsin Sajid stops by for a bumper session on his 20 years in the denim industry (so far), a rundown on denim history, collecting vintage sewing gear, which vintage jeans are the best, zero-waste design, how denim is slowly moving from being one of the worst polluters in the fashion industry to something a little better and how Tencel is doing good stuff, hemp making a massive comeback, spanking a lot of industry and sustainability myths! Find Mohsin Sajid on Instagram as @mohsinsajid ...
Oct 28, 2021•1 hr 52 min•Season 3Ep. 8
This week my guest is Leigh of The RE:DIRECTORY. After 20 years in High Street retail, Leigh reached a point where she could no longer stand behind the values they worked to, mainly going for quick profit and short-term gains. As an experienced buyer, she has seen the inner workings of the fashion business, from top management to the shop floor. She now promotes small, ethical businesses through her web platform, The RE:DIRECTORY. Topics include how fast fashion played Pied Piper to the traditio...
Oct 21, 2021•1 hr 17 min•Season 3Ep. 7
Andrew Groves is Professor of Fashion Design at the University of Westminster, London and curator of their menswear archive. He pops by to talk about moving to London as a young man, working with Alexander McQueen, being a student while working in a sex shop, moving into academia as a lecturer, the one-upmanship of terrace culture, why bad taste needs to be collected and shopping for the Menswear Archive with a sack full of cash. Oh, and some more ideas on what makes a cherished garment! You can...
Oct 15, 2021•1 hr 27 min•Season 3Ep. 6
This week, Sam Binstead is back for a laidback chat about the world of slow fashion, local makers, mending, vintage, bond villains, the outdoorsy life, promoting the susty message on Instagram, the real way forward and making shoes from odd materials. You can find Sam Binstead on Instagram as @Sam.Binstead and on YouTube here . Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome ...
Oct 08, 2021•1 hr 19 min•Season 3Ep. 5
This week bespoke tailor Nicholas Simon visits Garmology to talk about the future of suits, how he was pushed into pushed tailoring, why Savile Row is still the epitome of suit-making, the difference between a good suit and a bad suit, bespoke vs made to measure, why it makes sense to own a really well made and well fitting suit in a great fabric. And, Nicholas attempts to describe the smell of Patrick Grant. You can find Nicholas Simon on the web here and on Instagram as @nicholas_simon_tailori...
Sep 30, 2021•1 hr 10 min•Season 3Ep. 4
Ella Grifee is a solo maker based in Cornwall, UK. From her small studio she crafts shirts to order, from organic fabrics and shipped in recyclable wrapping. Inspired to start the company after being furloughed from a large fashion company, it seemed the perfect time to pivot into doing her own thing. We talk about life as a sole employee, working from home, the joy of making, Ella's favourite stolen goods and how cherished garments are sustainable. You can find Ella Grifee on the web here and o...
Sep 23, 2021•1 hr 5 min•Season 3Ep. 3
After a long career in textile design and fabrication, Sam Goates set up shop as a solitary weaver in the port of Buckie in the North of Scotland. Bringing a down at heel bitsa this, bitsa that Hattersley single-width loom back to life to weave custom cloths for discerning customers worldwide. We talk about Sam's time in Australia, how she is not weaving Harris Tweed, the frustrations of keeping a vintage loom running right, employing family members and how there are never enough hours in the da...
Sep 16, 2021•1 hr 4 min•Season 3Ep. 2
First out in season 3 of Garmology is Richard Tyler of Men's Accessories company Tyler & Tyler. Tyler & Tyler comes from the stable of a British family-controlled business that has been manufacturing in Birmingham since 1908. They design and make all the extra shiny finishing touches such as cufflinks, tie clips, blazer buttons and lapel pins. They also offer a swathe of ties, leather goods and more. We talk about the making, the using, the reasoning, design, sustainability and more. You...
Sep 09, 2021•1 hr 14 min•Season 3Ep. 1
Keen waxer of waxed jackets, Ryan Mallinson, is back for a follow-up. We get into a few of the ideas behind slower fashion, buying what you actually need instead of what is available, taking care of your kit, repairing and improving, building a business from scratch, taking risks, creating a brand and building a community, being genuine in business, and more! You can find Mallin & Son on Instagram as @mallinandson and on the web as mallinandson.com Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, ed...
Jul 18, 2021•52 min•Season 2Ep. 22
Gary Newbold returns for this episode to talk around the topic of "buy better, buy less", what choices we make in how things are made, which fabrics we use, what it's like to work in the clothing business and more. There is a lot of talk of which fabrics and fibres we should avoid, but which should we seek out? This is probably the most ASMR episode yet, for those in the know. You can find English Utopia on Instagram as @englishutopia and on the web as englishutopia.com . Garmology is researched...
Jun 25, 2021•1 hr 38 min•Season 2Ep. 21
One of the most fundamental pieces of human knowledge is tying knots, and even more so when it comes to our footwear. Lacing and tying shoes is something we learn at an early age and most of us use this knowledge daily all our life. My guest today is Ian Fieggen, self-styled Professor Shoelace, inventor of better knot and keeper of the definitive website for lacing and tying. We talk about how this came about, what knots mean to him, which knots for what purpose, why it matters how you lace your...
Jun 16, 2021•1 hr 5 min•Season 2Ep. 20
An icon of men's style, fashion business guru, the face of #menswear, a voracious collector of garms and a non-fungible digital Lego figure. Nick Wooster is the guest of this weeks Garmology! We talk about his early days longing for a cashmere sweater in Salina, Kansas, moving to New York and eventually scaling the grades within fashion, the randomness of becoming a style icon and what it's like to still be in it for the clothes. You can find Nick on Instagram as @nickwooster and on the web at n...
Jun 04, 2021•1 hr 28 min•Season 2Ep. 19
This weeks guest is Mark Larese-Casanova, an old friend of mine from the heady days of menswear forums. Mark is a fellow fan of well-made, well designed and interesting menswear, so much so that he has recently changed from being in front of students to becoming a student. We talk about making garments and how knowledge changes your perspective on what you wear. Oh, and designing and making your own clothes. You can find Mark on Instagram as @mlcasanova.design and on the web at https://mlcasanov...
May 19, 2021•1 hr 21 min•Season 2Ep. 18
My guest in this episode is Jack Millington, founder of Billy Tannery, a business that started with the plan of using the otherwise discarded hides of goats. We talk about the inspiration to start a new business, the reality of bringing a crazy idea to fruition, the situation for goats and how collaborations make it possible to create a viable business. You can find Billy Tannery on the web here and on Instagram as @billytannery . Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid ...
May 12, 2021•1 hr•Season 2Ep. 17
The wife and husband team of Sarah and Paul have been running SEH Kelly since 2009. Quietly designing, making and revising a stream of garments that have found appreciative owners. All made in the British isles, from British cloths, and all backed by Sarah's tailoring and Paul's prose. From their HQ, which is basically a cold shed in Shoreditch, they are a great example of doing things well and being happy staying small. You can find SEH Kelly on the web here and on Instagram here . Garmology is...
Apr 21, 2021•1 hr 19 min•Season 2Ep. 16
It has been said that if you don't notice the clothes used in a film, the designer has done a good job. Sometimes though, the clothes, like the music, the sets and props, become more than just background. For me, the films of Guy Ritchie embody this, so to have a good chat about precisely this subject, I sat down with Christopher Laverty, author of "Fashion in film", the Clothes on Film website and an utter anorak when it comes to what is being worn on the big screen. You can find Christopher on...
Apr 14, 2021•1 hr 22 min•Season 2Ep. 15
Arguably, one of the most compelling television shows in recent years is The Great British Sewing Bee, a fierce, yet friendly, competition between keen hobbyist sewers, with warmth, humour and great opportunities for learning. I can only imagine countless new sewers being inspired to thread their machine and start creating. My guests are Matt Gage and Liz Grylls from the 2020 season and we talk about getting started, applying for the Sewing Bee, what it was like on set, appreciating clothes you ...
Apr 10, 2021•1 hr 13 min•Season 2Ep. 14
Tanmay Saxena has enjoyed an unusual route to where he is today, from studying IT in India to starting Lane Fortyfive in London. We talk about how he got started, being noticed in Japan, how making to order allows a unisex and made to measurements approach, slow fashion, sustainability and how people should think of dressing more as art than a way to merely hide their bodies from sight. You can find Lane Fortyfive on the web at lanefortyfive.com and on Instagram as @lanefortyfive . Garmology is ...
Mar 31, 2021•1 hr 23 min•Season 2Ep. 13
Sam Binstead enjoys the good things in life. Coffee, wine, cheese and now, a slow fashion style. We talk about what slow fashion entails, where to find the good stuff, the issues in how we dress and ultimately, is "slow fashion" a good name for it? Sam vlogs about a considered lifestyle and buying better and less on YouTube, see link in the notes. You can find Sam Binstead on Instagram as @Sam.Binstead and on YouTube here . As mentioned in this episode, a couple of Harry and Paul's "I saw you co...
Mar 17, 2021•1 hr 23 min•Season 2Ep. 11
David Evans, otherwise known as Grey Fox, has been blogging about menswear for 10 years. Championing menswear for the older man, be it classic suits, vintage denim or outdoors tweed, David has built a wide following. We talk about the madness of social media, the problem of both liking new clothes and being pro-sustainability, and how old cars fit in with heritage brands and enjoy a good laugh. You can find David's blog at greyfoxblog.com and on Instagram as @greyfoxblog Garmology is researched,...
Mar 10, 2021•1 hr 24 min•Season 2Ep. 10
A popular guest from season one makes a welcome return! Sara from Sartorialab is on the pod for a light chat about fits, fails, hairstyles after hair loss, hats, the fallacy of buying the same stuff over and over, dressing for weddings and quite a bit of this and that! You can get in touch with Sarah on Instagram as Sartorialab or on the web . Garmology is researched, booked, hosted, edited, published, paid for and everything else by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but ...
Mar 03, 2021•1 hr 3 min•Season 2Ep. 9
