FE4.9 - Mountain Legacies - podcast episode cover

FE4.9 - Mountain Legacies

Dec 17, 202256 minSeason 4Ep. 9
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Episode description

From a distance, mountain landscapes may appear timeless and immutable. Take a closer look, however, and montane ecologies reveal themselves to be laboratories of radical transformation: rocks weather and fall; ecosystems burst into life for brief intervals; tree-lines shift; and wildfires rage. Even the very peaks themselves inch inexorably upwards or downwards with the flow of time.

Amidst all the constant, unyielding change that animates the Earth's high places, people have long sought a vantage from which to survey this shifting terrain. Who can resist the romance of a breathtaking, mountaintop view? Or then to imagine what generations past might have seen from the same spot?

In the mid 1990s, a small group of scientists in western Canada grew dissatisfied with mere imagining — they wanted to see that change for themselves. And in a forgotten corner of a national archive, they found some very heavy boxes that held a rare promise: an opportunity to look back in time at a landscape scale.

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Learn more about the Mountain Legacy Project: mountainlegacy.ca

Explore all the photos and data: explore.mountainlegacy.ca

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Transcript

Introduction Voiceover: You are listening to Season Four of Future Ecologies.

Brian Starzomski

Mountains are very special places, no matter how you look at them. Whether it's recreation, or its biodiversity, or its human geography and human diversity, they're... they're absolutely beautiful, wonderful places.

Andrew Trant

There's a world that's compressed along a gradient that is tangible. So you can you can see it, feel it — you can walk from a forest and be in the alpine tundra in two hours.

Brian Starzomski

You know, you get isolation plus time. You have places that are hard to get to, and they're hard to get to for a long period of time. And it leads to diversity rising in those situations. And so mountains are always really exciting.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Everyone who's ever moved through a mountainous landscape, like you know that it's like, it matters which direction you go, and you pick carefully the way that you move based on the topography of that landscape. And that's the same for every other creature that's moving — or every other biological or abiological process: wind, water, pathogens. And so those processes shape the change that we see: the gradients across those landscapes.

Brian Starzomski

So even just over small little bits of space (like meters, we're not talking kilometers), you can have radically different climate conditions and totally different species in those places.

Andrew Trant

At every level, at every elevation, it's a completely different system. So it's a connected system, but you find a different assemblage of plants and animals and all kinds of other things. And it's all... it's all very immediate.

Brian Starzomski

Because mountains are so difficult to move around in, they're often very under surveyed. Actually it turns out that we think we know lots about biodiversity, but if you go there at different times than when other people have visited a site, or you go to a place that people don't get to very often, you'll almost always find something new.

Sandra Fray

Something about being in the mountains, and just the vastness of those landscapes, and the hazards you sometimes see and experience, the friendships that are forged in those environments feel like they can weather a lot.

Mary Sanseverino

Yes, I always like to say: if you're lucky enough to be in the mountains, you're lucky enough.

Mendel Skulski

Hey, I'm Mendel.

Adam Huggins

I'm Adam. And it's no secret that we here at Future Ecologies have an abiding love for the high country. Every year. I wait with mounting anticipation for that brief window, just a few months really, when the snow recedes and all of the alpine ecosystems just burst into life. In some ways, it's what I live for. It's a call that I find completely irresistible.

Mendel Skulski

For many of us, mountains are little more than a backdrop for the rest of our lives, lived here on the flatland. For some though, they can be an intoxicating invitation to explore, discover, and self realize. And for a select few, mountains can be a many-layered text, that if deciphered carefully, opens a window into the history of life, ecosystems and the planet itself.

Adam Huggins

I mean, I mostly just go up there to see the wildflowers. What do you find most fascinating about mountains?

Mendel Skulski

I, you know, I love being able to look at the strata of rock, and be able to peel back time. You know, it looks unchanging, it looks immutable and timeless. But when you get up close, you can see all these transformations in Earth's history. All the tectonic, climatic, and evolutionary shifts that have literally determined the shape of our world.

Adam Huggins

Yeah, there's, there's also mushrooms up there too, right?

Mendel Skulski

I'm more than just the mushroom person. But yes.

Adam Huggins

I didn't... I don't mean to paint you into a corner, Mendel.

Mendel Skulski

That's okay. Today, we're gonna get elevated with some true mountaineers, who are building on a legacy that spans over a century of incredible environmental change.

Adam Huggins

That's right. And they're going to tell the story in their own words

Mendel Skulski

From Future Ecologies, this is Mountain Legacies. Introduction Voiceover: Broadcasting from the unceded, shared, and asserted territories of the Musqueam. Squamish, and Tsleil-Waututh, this is Future Ecologies: exploring the shape of our world, through ecology, design and sound.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Okay, so I'm Jeanine Rhemtulla, and I'm an associate professor in the Department of Forest and Conservation Sciences at the University of British Columbia. And I am... what am I? I'm a landscape ecologist by training, and I'm really interested in in large landscapes — and how they change across space and through time; and who the people are in those landscapes that are shaping that change, making decisions about how we want to live on those landscapes into the future.

Eric Higgs

And I've always wanted to be Jeanine. I'm Eric Higgs, I'm a professor in the School of Environmental Studies at the University of Victoria.

Adam Huggins

Longtime listeners will remember Eric from the "Nature By Design" series that kicked off our third season. He's a friend, mentor, and now my colleague at the University of Victoria. And he also helped us produce this story.

Mendel Skulski

A story which begins way back in 1996 — in Jasper National Park, high up in the Canadian Rockies.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

I was a graduate student at the time: I was a master's student at the University of Alberta, in the department of renewable resources — of all awful names — doing a graduate degree. And I wasn't very happy in that

graduate degree

I hadn't yet found the project that really made my heart sing. And I was actually ready to quit, to be honest. And then I was kind of casting about at the university, you know, just trying to find somebody that was doing interesting work that felt like it was the right fit. And somewhere along the lines of knocking on doors, I knocked on the door of Professor Eric Higgs. And he just started talking about this project that he was putting together: the

Culture, Ecology, and Restoration project in Jasper. I don't remember what we talked about, I just remember being blown away by the interdisciplinarity of it: the way that he was bringing together people from all different disciplines, different perspectives on a question: what does it mean to do restoration in a national park?

He said "your job on this project, what I want you to answer is, what did this national park look like 100 years ago?" And so the idea was that we were going to recreate the ecological history and the cultural history of the park, and bring those together to ask about how the landscape and the people in that landscape had changed.

Eric Higgs

It was way more challenging to answer that question than we ever expect it to be. So we thought that was

the easy part

we walk in, we go to the archives, there'd be some books, you know, book chapters written about this, and that we'd be able to piece together on what the landscape looked like. We got quite desperate after the first few weeks, right? And we were having a dinner I recall around the table with a group and I just said "we have really got to go out, and everybody tomorrow has to figure out, like, can we find anything that tells us what this is like?"

Jeanine Rhemtulla

We thought about using dendrochronology, so you can core trees. But that's very painstaking, and you can only do it in small areas. So we'd looked, for example, for old historical air photos, right? That's always a standard place to go. But the earliest are photos from the 1940s. And so that got us back partway, but not the whole way. this place used to look like." And he said, "Oh, I got these old photographs in this desk drawer," and so walks me over

the desk drawer, and he opens up the bottom. And then there's these just beautiful albums of pictures. And you would go like, page after page — black and white, and they were kind of like I don't know, by maybe five by seven, or six by four. Beautiful pictures, these kind of cryptic numbers in the upper corner where you could tell there was some kind of like, there was some kind of series or something... Front ends of the books had this little index in them that had station numbers.

So they were something, but it wasn't quite clear who had taken them, or what they were. And they had a date in the corner: 1915.

Eric Higgs

That's about all we knew about them.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

That, and I remember... I remember that map — it was like an 11 by 17 map. And the map had numbers on it. And at some point, we put together that the numbers on that map matched the numbers that were in these albums. And we were like, "Oh, those are the photo stations where we would need to go to take those pictures." And I think you were the one that said we should go repeat them.

Eric Higgs

So we climbed... we sort of scrambled up to powerhouse cliff. We found an old animal trail and we followed it up. It wasn't very difficult to get up there. But we walked along the ridge of this cliff and you know, holding these historic photos out. We took photocopies, right?

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Mhm.

Eric Higgs

Yeah. And we got up along the ridge, and we kept looking, and it was like we weren't finding the right spot. And then eventually it was like, "oh my gosh, this has to be the right place." And then we looked at across the Athabasca Valley, and nothing made sense. And you described it as kind of vertigo. Like you have this interpretive vertigo, where you know you're in the right place looking at a photograph of that place. And then what you're seeing isn't anything like what it looked like.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

There were trees, everywhere we looked

there were trees

there was this huge carpet of green trees, tall trees, thick homogeneous trees, right? And that's what we expect in a national park. That's what we come to know Jasper National Park to be, is trees, right? Because it's a protected area.

But when you look at the pictures, the pictures are this patchy mosaic of all of these different little shrubby things, and there are some grass areas, and then there's trees of different types and textures: some coniferous trees, some deciduous trees, different heights of different trees. Like, just a mosaic — a mosaic of diversity. So here you are standing in the middle of a national park, which has been preserved intact to be the way that it's supposed to

be. And yet we're looking standing in the same spot that these surveyors were 100 years before, and the park is fundamentally different.

Eric Higgs

So then we just walked away and left it all alone. No, we started walking and we did a couple more stations, and then having a mathematical mind that you do you started to think "maybe I can actually reconstruct the vegetation patterns from these oblique photos. Wouldn't it be cool if we could like repeat all of the images in Jasper National Park." And so we started getting all enthusiastic about this idea. Because we now knew there were 92 separate locations, and from

each location, there were multiple images. So there were a total of 735 images. And most of these were mountain tops.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Never imagining that this would become bigger, right? Like we just thought this was this one survey, we focused our work on just this one space. So those were the pictures we were repeating

Eric Higgs

The story that's etched in my mind so strongly is the very last day of the second summer of this work, where we were wrapping the last station: we saved Pyramid mountain for the last, and that was the very first real mountain that Jeanine and I climbed. But by this point, after three years, we were like, pretty fit, and used to mountains. We shot the last photograph, and I had a bottle of bubbly stashed away and some

smoked salmon. And we watched the ravens circling, and we had a just a wonderful time. I don't think I would recommend champagne on a mountain top when you have to climb down as a life choice. But that was what we did. And we got off these big quartz boulders and down to where we were staying. And there was a package for us. It was from our colleague, Ian McLaren, who was an historian, literary historian at the University of Alberta — an amazing archival

researcher as well. And it was the season and survey report from Morris Bridgeland, who was the surveyor. We knew the original name really well. And it was his report to the federal government on his 1915 survey in Jasper National Park. So at the very last day, the last moment of our survey, we finally knew where they had gone, and in what sequence. And it was fantastic.

We read the whole thing as we're eating dinner and reading and it was like, "Oh, my gosh, they did this!" And they turns out, they had two camera crews, which is how they managed to get through all the photography in one season. And then we both kind of moved on from the project. And we thought, "this is our moment." And then enter Rob Watt.

Rob Watt

I go by Rob, there's too many Bobs in the world

Eric Higgs

At that time, he was a park warden at Waterton Lakes National Park, and he was an inveterate historian, amateur historian.

Rob Watt

And for some reason, there were something like three dozen volumes of Morris Parson Bridgeland's photographs, on a shelf in the common area of the office. And I didn't understand the background at the time. I didn't even know who Morris Bridgeland was. I gathered from the book that he was a land surveyor, and he took a bunch of photographs. But we didn't have any of his maps, for instance, and of courses this was way before there's anything like an internet. They had a big map

collection down in what was the admin office in Washington. So I poked around in their map collection. And lo and behold, there's a map of Waterton: three mapsheets with Morris Parsons Bridgeland's name on them, and camera stations!

Eric Higgs

And he said, You know, "I have maps that show, you know, where there was evidence — photographic survey locations, because it shows that on the map," and it turned out to be by the same surveyor that we were working with in Jasper: Bridgeland. He said, "and I have the index to views," which was all important because that tells you where they were. I mean, the names aren't always modern names, but at least you knew where they were. But he said "but I don't know where the photographs are."

Jill Delaney

And so Eric contacted us in about 2002, very interested in where those photos came from, and was there a bigger collection,

Mendel Skulski

Jill Delaney, lead archivist in photography in the private archives branch, at Library and Archives Canada.

Jill Delaney

I've actually been working with Eric for 20 years on this project. And I've only been at the archives for 25 years. So it's been a big part of my career.

Eric Higgs

And that's too long a story to spin. But we found out that these glass plate negatives were held in boxes at NRCAN — Natural Resources Canada, not at the National Archives. And they were actually, in a sense, lost. I have this story. It's probably not accurate, but I like it anyway. It's a bit of a conspiracy tale: that some benevolent civil servant realize the value of these images and misfiled them. We did come across records and that's basically a destruction protocol. They were held on too

long. They take up a lot of space. They're heavy. Nobody uses them. They're gone.

Rob Watt

Three grad students from the U of A went to Ottawa, to the one of the national repositories, where records go to die.

Eric Higgs

And they were walking along and just by accident, I think, out of the corner of their eye. And poking out from the bottom of one of these barcode tags was a number that matched the kind of sequence of numbers that was on the box. And they said, "Woah! Wait a second, can we take a look at that box?" and pulls it off shelf — super heavy. And it was filled with glass plate negatives. So were the rest of the boxes on that shelf.

Rob Watt

Lo and behold, they found them.

Jill Delaney

So these are what's called a half plate: about four inches by six inches. That's a relatively thin glass plate, a bit thinner than window glass, let's say — but not much. It's kind of the same as with a film negative, it's basically the same concept. It's just that instead of the emulsion being on the film, it's on glass.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Alright, so our cameras — in the age before digital — our cameras used to use film. And when a camera took a picture on that film, it would make... the image that it recorded on the film was like backwards of what you actually see. So in places where, if you're using black and white film, where something was dark in real life, it would be light on the negative and where it's light in real life, it is dark

on the negative. And you only get to see back what that real picture looks like when you put that negative onto a piece of photographic paper and shine light through it, where it reverses that image again, and it ends up looking like what it really looks like in real life. So if you're looking at the negative, your eyes have to kind of imagine the whole thing... backwards. There's maybe 100,000 glass plate negatives in the National Archives covering most of British Columbia. And they are

spectacular images. These were the photographs that surveyors were taking at the turn of the century to make maps of this area.

Jill Delaney

The government was worried about American expansionism in the 19th century. So they started doing a boundary survey between the US and Canada in the 1860s.

Julie Fortin

The original surveyors, in the most case mountaineers or geologists, who were hired by the Government of Canada or by the provinces to to create these maps.

Jill Delaney

This kind of topographical survey. The problem was that when they hit the mountains, they realized that doing a kind of standard rod and chain survey was going to be really difficult, really slow, and really costly, and probably impossible, in some places.

Eric Higgs

The traditional means for surveying land was to establish reference points in the landscape. And then from those reference points, using fixed distances and elevational measurements, using transits and so on, you would get a sense of the topography, the elevational change and the distance. So you could create pretty accurate maps. So if you're moving across Saskatchewan, or what's now Saskatchewan, not so hard. Tedious, but not hard.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Yeah, it's like having a tape measure,

Rob Watt

The Gunters chain

Eric Higgs

So the chains were part of a legally determined length

Rob Watt

66 feet long, divided into 100 links of approximately 9 inches per link

Jeanine Rhemtulla

And so that was why, when they came to the mountains, like you can imagine dragging your chains across the

Eric Higgs

Like "Woah! Now we have this really steep mountains... elevation, and we've got all this complexity around topography..." And to do that using traditional techniques is hugely laborious.

Julie Fortin

So what they would do is they would go to a mountain peak, they would level the camera, and then they would take a whole panorama around to look at all of the peaks that you could see from that one peak.

Mary Sanseverino

So let's imagine that you have three

peaks

A, B, and C. So you'd get to peak A, you'd build yourself a nice big cairn. And then you'd take a set of panorama images, so that you could see peaks B and C. Then you'd go to B, build yourself a nice big cairn. And then you would shoot back so that A and C are in your panorama set. Then you'd go to C, build yourself a nice big cairn. You'd say, "Well, why the heck did you put a cairn on C? Isn't that extra work?" Yeah, you're going to D, and D is going to tie back to C.

Jenna Falk

And all the way through the mountains.

Julie Fortin

It was a very, like, calculated process. I don't think that it was done with artistry in mind. But the result is that some of the photos are absolutely beautiful, but that's also just the nature of the landscape and the subjects that they're taking pictures of.

Jill Delaney

It's not a tourist camera, right, it's a technical camera that had to survive the rigors of hiking and climbing through the mountain.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

And then that's what they were carrying

around

they had these big boxes on their backs that would hold 12 glass plate negatives and this old camera. And so imagine climbing mountains with like a backpack filled with pieces of glass.

Jill Delaney

It wasn't nearly as cumbersome as some earlier processes, where you had to take all the chemistry and a dark room with you. But probably the equipment weighed about 40 pounds that they had to take up to the peak where they would actually do the photography.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

And so yeah, climbing a mountain is hard. But if you can climb a mountain and take pictures, and take your pictures, again, in this 360 degree circuit going all across — you're taking a picture of all the land that you don't have to drag the chains across.

Jill Delaney

And it dramatically shortens the amount of time the surveyors have to spend in the field. And then you could pack all of these negatives together —

Jeanine Rhemtulla

then they would send them back to the office in Ottawa, where they must have had a whole office full of people doing geometry, essentially right, to turn those oblique angles back into a proper topographic map.

Rob Watt

The maths is fairly complex. Of course, they had some pretty smart people working on it.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Our earliest topographic maps of certainly of the mountains, but of much of other places in British Columbia were done with this kind of technique. But 100 years later, like we look at the pictures, and to have to turn those into top down maps is... it's just become an art that we've that we've lost. Like, we just don't do it anymore.

Mendel Skulski

And so began the Mountain Legacy Project, leveraging this massive collection of historical photographs, over 100,000 pictures covering almost all of BC, part of Alberta and the Yukon, to reveal over a century of change.

Adam Huggins

And to do that means repeating each and every photograph, on each and every mountain peak, one by one,

Alina Fisher

Okay, you have a photo, you go to the place where that photo was taken, you point your camera in the same direction, you try to take the exact same photo.

Eric Higgs

People who have done this a lot... so we have field crew members who've worked with us over the years. There's always one every summer who's kind of like the station whisperer, you know, who does the research with the photographs ahead of time before you go out into the field, and gets a sense of, you know, whether there's one location or two that this historical surveyor shot from. And then they just have a sixth sense, a pattern recognition that allows them to say, "I think it's over there."

Rob Watt

Because basically, you're going out and you're triangulating the reverse of what the surveyors did. They knew where they were. We're trying to trying to figure out where they were, so we're backtracking from their photographs.

Mary Sanseverino

Yeah, I know I have not been the only one that has been on the wrong mountain. We don't do it very often. But once in a while.

Jenna Falk

Well, it speaks to that it's an art and a science to find your right location.

Mary Sanseverino

Yeah with a little bit of mountaineering thrown in as well.

Mendel Skulski

You've heard from some of them already, but now it's time to meet a few members of the MLP field team.

Mary Sanseverino

Well age before beauty, I guess. So I'm Mary Sanseverino, and I am a retired member of faculty in the Department of Computer Science at the University of Victoria, Faculty of Engineering. And I've been a member of the Mountain Legacy Project since 2010. And still do a little bit of work with them from time to time.

Jenna Falk

I'm Jenna Falk. I was involved with the Mountain Legacy Project from 2011 to 2014, roughly, while I was doing my master's in the School of Environmental Studies at UVic.

Mary Sanseverino

And when I went in the field for the first time, I went as Jenna's assistant.

Jenna Falk

Which still does not make sense to this day.

Mary Sanseverino

Makes great sense, great sense to me.

Jenna Falk

Mary kept us alive.

Julie Fortin

So fieldwork was incredible. My name is Julie Fortin. I did my masters with the Mountain Legacy Project at UVic 2016 to 2018. I joke with my fellow MLP'ers that I peaked too soon, and I will never have another experience like that.

Kristin Walsh

So I've almost been... 10 summers in the Rockies now because of this project. My name is Kristen.

Adam Huggins

Kristen Walsh

Kristin Walsh

First became involved with Mountain Legacy in 2014. Went out for stellar field season with four amazing, strong headed women. What we do in terms of our work is very different from mountaineering. Because often people get to the summit, and then beeline it down to get to the sauna or a beer with friends. But our work really begins when we arrive on the summit.

Mary Sanseverino

You know, we work with the surveyors. We work with their with their work. And you're so close to this work, that really you feel like, like you know that person.

Jenna Falk

Because they all have a signature in their photographs

Sandra Fray

Bridgeland! That man was fearless. Every time we were doing one of his sites, I had this sort of like low-key dread. Because I just knew that wherever he said that that tripod, you know it was going to be not always the most low

exposure zone

it was going to be right on that outcrop, right over that precipice, just to get that perfect angle and perfect shot. And we knew we're in for that day. My name is Sandra Fray. So I worked as a field technician in the summer of 2016 and 2017.

Adam Huggins

And finally, Alina Fisher.

Alina Fisher

I am a PhD student in environmental studies. I'm also the research manager for environmental studies. So kind of wear two hats.

Mary Sanseverino

It's... it's so cool to be like kind of walking in their their footsteps. And even some of our techniques are very similar to the techniques that they used back at the turn of the 20th century. And their maps are, for the time, pretty accurate.

Jenna Falk

Very accurate.

Kristin Walsh

There is a somewhat of a science to it. But there's a good dose of intuition as well, that's hard to explain unless you've been there doing it. And sometimes you'll just arrive at the top and you can imagine where someone stood 100 years earlier, or sometimes there's a physical cairnnn that they built.

Mary Sanseverino

Oh yeah

Jenna Falk

Huge carins.

Mary Sanseverino

Huge cairns!

Jenna Falk

Like, you know, some were what, 8, 10 feet tall.

Mary Sanseverino

Mhm mhm.

Jenna Falk

Massive things.

Kristin Walsh

Then you need to snuggle into that cairn to take the picture. And sometimes the obvious spot is not the spot. And you'll spend hours... So definitely a lot of patience needed in lining up those photographs.

Jenna Falk

That was always like our our kind of type A personal

challenge

in the foreground. Like how close can you get the foreground to match exactly. And some of the rocks were in the exact same place.

Mary Sanseverino

Same place, yep.

Sandra Fray

Yeah, I know. I'm always wondering, "Can I sacrifice a little bit of scientific accuracy right now, not to get attacked by wasps? Is this okay?"

Alina Fisher

Isn't the verdict "shhh?"

Sandra Fray

Yeah. The verdict is safety first.

Alina Fisher

Yes, safety is always the first.

Mary Sanseverino

So I was, well not recently, but a few years ago, I was on Eiffel peak in Banff National Park. And Arthur Wheeler was there 1903. And he built an eight foot cairn. That cairn is still there. The pin that he put in place is still there. I know because we were there in an electric storm, and the cairn started to sing at you. When that happens, you must leave.

Sandra Fray

One of these hazards that you're on the lookout for in the mountains is weather, primarily. It can be a beautiful day. Mountain weather will do what it does best, and it changes on a dime. There was one day where we were on a peak, and we were very focused on the photographs we were taking.

Julie Fortin

We're going about taking our pictures, la de la de da.

Sandra Fray

And there was a storm cell that caught us by surprise.

Julie Fortin

Uhh... I don't really like the look of those clouds.

Sandra Fray

And of course, with the storm cell came all of a sudden... hail that's pelting down on us, and everything got slippery. And because it was a heli drop-off, full hover exit, you know, just right on this sort of conical peak, we had a really hard time climbing down a little bit, not to be the highest point on that mountain.

Julie Fortin

And then we looked at each other and we saw that our hair was standing on end.

Kristin Walsh

There's certain times when you just don't want to be on top of a mountain. Not only do you not want to be, but you shouldn't be.

Sandra Fray

You could just really feel the static in the air. And I remember hearing these boulders next to us where we were sort of crouched, just... could hear them buzzing,

Julie Fortin

You can... hear the static in the rocks,

Kristin Walsh

Sort of like in between a cat hissing and something like sizzling in a hot cast iron pan.

Sandra Fray

Everything that was metal, from the pin on top of your ballcap, you could hear that kind of singing and... it felt very real in that moment.

Julie Fortin

So that was a learning experience. Always keep your eye on the clouds.

Mary Sanseverino

You know, I like to say when you go to the mountains "Nobody died. Nobody cried. Well, nobody died."

Jenna Falk

Some of them were happy tears, to be fair.

Mary Sanseverino

Very happy tears, especially going "Yes! We made it!"

Jenna Falk

There are tears of joy. And then there are tears of relief.

Eric Higgs

There's so many moments, but they were fun at the time. Weren't they?

Alina Fisher

I feel like it's Type 2 fun, because at the time, you're like... you're struggling. You're slapping yourself non-stop to keep the mosquitoes away, and sweat's dripping in your eyes, and your hair got tangled in a bush as you're walking past something. You're hungry. You're thirsty. "Oh crap. My three liters of water is not enough."

Sandra Fray

I feel like the most fun I've had on these projects, and then generally, is those times I'm also asking myself "Whose idea was this?" "What are we doing here?" And then later you're

Alina Fisher

Yes! like, "That was so much fun."

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Type 2 fun.

Alina Fisher

Because it's fun... when you look back on it.

Sandra Fray

Yeah.

Alina Fisher

But at the time, there's a bit of swearing involved.

Sandra Fray

Yeah.

Eric Higgs

Yeah, I've also embedded Type 3 fun. Which is –

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Which is never fun?

Eric Higgs

No, it's mostly what you deal with office of [bleep bleep]. Don't... don't quote that.

Adam Huggins

All in all, this does not sound that different from my bad mushroom trip at the top of Black Mountain, back in 2010.

Mendel Skulski

But did you come back with a priceless dataset of 1000s of repeat photographs?

Adam Huggins

No, I... I did not. I was just happy to make it off the mountain alive.

Mendel Skulski

Well, now that we too are coming down out of the mountains, let's have a look at those photos, shall we?

Adam Huggins

We shall, After the break. Adam.

Mendel Skulski

Mendel. This is Future Ecologies. And today we're hearing about the Mountain Legacy Project from the folks that made it happen.

Adam Huggins

In this second half of the episode, we ask "What can we learn from two sets of identical photographs, taken over a century apart?"

Brian Starzomski

We have this remarkable and very rare collection. It's very unusual to have data that's this old in

North America

this remarkable collection of what landscapes looked like over 100 years ago. Aesthetically, it's really neat to see that but from the point of view of a scientist, this is very difficult to get data.

Mendel Skulski

Brian Starzomski, Director of the School of Environmental Studies at the University of Victoria.

Brian Starzomski

There are no other ways to get data like this, there are no other ways to look this far back in terms of what landscapes and what the ecology of the West looked like.

Mary Sanseverino

The... the fidelity of the information that are on the historic glass plates, it's hard to beat that. Now, mind you, it's an oblique view.

Brian Starzomski

Interpreting oblique photos is more difficult than interpreting photos or data that's collected at a right angle, which is what satellite derived or remote sensing data is.

Mary Sanseverino

And I can tell you, as a person that does a little bit of software, it's not easy to go from the oblique view to something that goes on to a 2d map — that goes to the orthographic, the... the look down view, like an air photo. You can do it, but it's not easy. So in the photograph, the pixels that are in the far distance, those pixels are huge. And the pixels that are in the foreground, those pixels represent a very small area.

Julie Fortin

If I were to tell you that like there are 1000 pixels of coniferous forest, it actually kind of matters where they are on the photo if they're in the foreground or the background.

Mary Sanseverino

So in the distance, one pixel, huge area, foreground, one pixel, tiny area.

Julie Fortin

This whole process of projecting these photographs is actually computationally pretty difficult, but doable now.

Mary Sanseverino

It's applied linear math, and a lot of programming. And we wouldn't call it research if we knew what we were doing. So we're really, really at the bleeding edge, if you will. What we do with this is take land cover classifications that are made from the photographs. So imagine you're looking at a photo that was done in 1897. And you look at the photo and you classify it and you say, well, that's grassland and that's –

Sandra Fray

Mixed wood forest

Mary Sanseverino

and coniferous forest

Sandra Fray

Open meadow

Mary Sanseverino

Shrub

Sandra Fray

Barren rock

Mary Sanseverino

That's ice. And then you do that for a modern photo. And then you compare the two.

Sandra Fray

Yes, that's when you get into the analytic side of things. And it's not just all fun and games in the mountains... I've heard!

Mary Sanseverino

I've got a couple of takeaways. Number one: loss of ice. The loss of glaciation is absolutely jaw dropping, staggering. Second: industry in the landscape. Several times, we were on the land, trying to line up these images and everything worked except for one. And that's because the mountain wasn't there anymore.

Brian Starzomski

Probably 5% of British Columbia's GDP comes out of coal mines. Coal mining is done by mountaintop removal.

Mary Sanseverino

It's really crazy to see the glacier gone. But when your underlying geological structure is just gone, it's... it's disconcerting. And I'll say a

third one

Alpine treeline ecotone creep up slope. So that is in so many photos.

Brian Starzomski

When people think of the treeline, I suppose they probably think of this razor sharp delineation, between forest below it and then alpine tundra or wildflower meadows above it, and it's often not really like that.

Andrew Trant

As you get closer to that boundary, which we call the treeline ecotone, the trees start to change their growth forms.

Adam Huggins

Andrew Trant, Associate Professor in the School of Environment, Resources and Sustainability at the University of Waterloo.

Andrew Trant

And so you start to get trees that are growing less vertically more horizontally. The growth form that we refer to is called Krumholtz,

Brian Starzomski

Krumholtz, these trees that are very difficult to walk through, you see them in mountainous places all over the world, the conditions are such that they can't grow very tall, certainly less than two meters tall,

Andrew Trant

You can have the same species growing in the forested area that you see up just around the edge. And one can be 100 feet tall, and one could be three feet tall, same species, but it's just the environment that really drives that growth form.

Brian Starzomski

And it's just this impenetrable thicket that is very difficult to get through, but absolutely filled with bird life. When we measure treelines, we do it in a variety of different ways, we may say that a treeline is the highest elevation that a certain height of tree goes. We might say that this is where the two meter trees run out. Or we might say that the treeline is the limit of where a certain density of forest exists.

Andrew Trant

One important piece of this puzzle when we're thinking about these boundaries and thinking about treeline is that they are, they are in some ways controlled by temperature. So as things are warming, then we would expect trees and ultimately, this whole complex community to be able to grow higher up the mountain. In most cases, that's what we saw, it was kind of an overwhelmingly clear signal of change in that direction.

Jeanine Rhemtulla

For all of the quantification that we've done, being able to transform these into kind of like hard numbers that we always like to have, as scientists... I still think that some of the most value comes from these pictures, is their evocative value to audiences: to be able to look at those pictures side by side, and to just be able to see the amount of change in the landscape. And then to be able to dig in and ask these questions like "Okay, so these

these landscapes are completely changed. First of all, which one do you think is the present, and which one do you think is the past?" And so often people say, "Oh, well, the one that's got trees everywhere, that has to be what it looked like 100 years ago. And the one that's patchy, and it's got like little shrubby stuff, that must be what it looks like today, because we've obviously cleared the land, right? It used to be treed, and

now we've cleared it." because that's again, our image of what people have done the landscapes, and it's bad if there's no trees, and it's good if there's just homogeneous trees everywhere.

Julie Fortin

Yeah, a lot of people that I have spoken to have said, "Oh, more trees. That's good, isn't it?" And, in fact, no, especially a lot of the places where there are these denser forests now have a lot higher wildfire risk. And so that's risk to the community, a whole bunch of other risks for climate change. Because if you have these large swaths of connected forest, it's a lot harder to fight these fires if

they do get into places that we don't want them to be. It's also bad for biodiversity, in the sense that, because the landscape is more homogeneous now, species that relied on these diverse bits of habitat have less of it, and therefore they're suffering, whereas species that were already dominant are doing better.

Andrew Trant

And in a mountain environment, you are limited with the amount of area that you have, as you go higher up the mountain, the area decreases because you're looking at something that's kind of conical.

Brian Starzomski

That's right. And actually, those alpine meadows, those mountaintop meadows above the treeline are some of the most remarkable and diverse habitats for a variety of very rare plants, often with very restricted ranges, because they're just found on those mountain tops, or hugely diverse and abundant butterfly populations. So one of the really remarkable things about being on a mountaintop in July or August, are the 1000s of butterflies

flying around. And as treeline moves up, those habitats get smaller and smaller, and this is going to happen all across southern BC. Treelines will move up, we'll have more trees, sure, in mountains. But we'll have much less Alpine habitat, which means much less habitat for things like White Bark Pine, for really beautiful rare and endangered butterflies, for really rare and range restricted plants. And just that habitat that we really love. A lot of people really love those lush

mountain meadows or those rocky craggy peaks. There are going to be fewer and fewer of those as forests move up more and more in the mountains.

Bill Snow

The pressures that are being put on mountain landscapes — it affects our water, affects our air, our culturally important and sacred places. But probably most of all, it affects our wildlife. And gradually, they are being squeezed out of their their habitats.

Mendel Skulski

Bill Snow, Acting Director of Consultation for Stoney Tribal Administration,

Bill Snow

I work with the three first nations that comprise Stoney Nakoda, which are the Bearspaw First Nation, the Chiniki and the Goodstoney First Nation.

Mendel Skulski

The reserves of these three nations are just west of Calgary, a few hours drive south of Jasper, and near another famous National Park: Banff.

Jenna Falk

You drive through the Rocky Mountains "Oh, isn't it beautiful?" But then the flip side of that is this is all grown in because fire has been suppressed for decades. And what does that mean for wildlife and ecosystems? Fire would be naturally occurring here if it wasn't put out as soon as possible. So the ecosystems have changed, the wildlife patterns and habitat has changed.

Bill Snow

When fires excluded, we get what we have right now. We have overgrowth, so that even wildlife can't find access into some areas. That may bottleneck wildlife routes, to go into certain areas where they may come into more human conflict. And then those those overgrowth areas become tinder boxes for natural or manmade events to to become a fire hazards.

Eric Higgs

Yeah, working in, say, the front ranges of Waterton, where you're aware of mountain pine beetle as an insect pathogen, and then fire suppression, and then the desire now to prescribe fire and put fire back on the landscape. And so many other drivers of change, you know, shifting that ecosystem around. And then you get these events that just leave you breathless.

So in September 2017, a wildfire came in over the Continental Divide into Waterton. Fortunately, the national park staff had done early warning on this fire and managed to evacuate people and so on. But I've heard some describe it as a slow moving explosion. The fire came in, you know, in the early evening. And by midnight it had gone through the park. Took out over 35% of the park area in that period. And a lot at very high severity, meaning the fire really, really burned hot in that area.

People were frightened by that fire. I mean, people were traumatized by that fire. It was so severe and so fast moving. And so it was a kind of a system changing event. And clearly one that had been, in a sense, unprecedented.

Bill Snow

There is work going on within Banff National Park — firebreaks firesmart programs, that's good. But this whole policy of no burning, period, over the last 100 years has created... is creating a large problem. And that's going to affect everybody, from people who visit the park, to the people who live there. And as Stoney Nakoda, that's part of our traditional lands. So it will impact us as well.

Mary Sanseverino

This speaks to something that you have to come to terms with if you're going to work with these photos. These photos are colonial artifacts. They are deeply colonial. The reason that they exist is because the country needed to make maps. And what did they need to make maps for? They needed to make maps so that the resources could be divvied up.

Eric Higgs

The images are arguably a pre-eminent colonial record. They were about surveying for resource extraction, surveying for transportation, and surveying for settlement. So they were really all about exclusion of Indigenous peoples

Jeanine Rhemtulla

On this idea that people are necessarily bad. We get rid of them, and now we've got the park and we're protecting it.

Eric Higgs

So yes, very effective from a colonial perspective, but also very effective in producing a lot of images that we might be able to use for decolonial purposes.

Mary Sanseverino

And so how might we do that? What about using them to inform First Nations studies of land? Maybe, you know, returning to burning practices, for example.

Bill Snow

In traditional times, I believe that traditional burns were used in select areas, to regrow areas for purposes of harvesting, not only plants and medicines, but for wildlife. And was also used to clear pathways to create access,

Jeanine Rhemtulla

Right? And here were these photographs that showing well oh gosh look like this park that we've "protected" (here I'm using scare quotes) "protected" for 100 years and look, it's fundamentally changed. And why is this? And it's forcing us to consider what's causing this change, what was maintaining the ecosystems that looked the way they did 100 years ago. And oh look, it was actually people taking care of these lands that made those lands look like what they did.

Bill Snow

When the Stoney people would travel through different areas, you know, they wouldn't go and cut down a brand new tree, a green tree. They would use the dead wood in that area. So just by living in camping in a certain area, they would take all of that away from that landscape. And they would always be moving around. So they'd go from one area to another, and another clan or family might be behind them doing the same thing. And so you have this maintenance going on,

just by Indigenous people moving through those areas. But you don't have that anymore. We have been in talks with Banff National Park on reintroducing Indigenous burning. Not all areas, but select areas. I'm not saying that fires are going to solve everything. But those past practices held those areas in in a certain kind of balance.

Adam Huggins

And of course, humans and fire are not the only ecosystem forces at play here. The historical dynamics of these mountains also included large grazing mammals: Like bison.

Bill Snow

We see that by having wildlife like bison out there, they are able to impact that landscape. They are able to feed on not only the grasses, but the willows. They rub up against the trees when they move around. They trampl down on the new growth that comes up. When bison are out there, they hold the forest in check from overgrowth. They make trails... through willows and through the bush, to get to the places that they want

to go to. And so they have an impact on the landscape that we don't totally fully understand yet. Stoney Nakoda have been in support of the bison reintroduction project, going back to 2014. They were translocated into what's called the Panther Dormer area — sort of the northeast part of Banff National Park. There's no roads to get in to this particular place. So the bison had to be airlifted by crates in helicopters 30 kilometers into

the actual reintroduction zone. They've gone from 16 head in 2017, and today there are over 90 head. There's a lot of overlap related to wildlife studies, related to fire, related to land planning, especially in Banff National Park. Landscapes today are drastically different from how they looked 100 years ago. So that's really important to know.

Mendel Skulski

But beyond revealing those changes, and offering some tools to intervene, these photos can play a part of an even more fundamental question.

Eric Higgs

Stony Nakoda nation have used the images to sort of say, "Well, what were these mountains called before? And let's rename them, you know, let's at least get them into cultural currency."

Bill Snow

Those places have a story and a name that hasn't been told yet. It's important because many of the places, especially in the Canadian Rockies, do not reflect the Indigenous name or the Indigenous meaning. One of the first pictures that we were able to work on with the Mountain Legacy Project is the first picture from the east side of Lake Louise. And yes, it is a beautiful place, but it's also a spiritual place. And that's not what visitors understand when

they come there. Lake Louise, you know, "crown jewel of the Canadian Rockies." And the person who's credited with the discovery of Lake Louise is an early mountaineer named Tom Wilson. August 21, 1882. Tom Wilson was working on the railway when they came through that area. And at different times during the day they could hear like a big rumble off in the mountains, like an avalanche or rock slide. There was a group of Stoney people camped nearby in the Banff area. And so he went to go

visit them and ask them "What's that sound? That rumbling sound." And they told him that "That's God speaking to us." And so he got all intrigued, "Well where's this place? I want to go see this place." So one of the guides, his name was Edwin Hunter, Stoney guide, and he took him up there to go see the lake. And when they got up there he could see those rock slides, so Tom Wilson was guided up there by a Stoney, but he's credited with the discovery. So if places and names have

meaning, we're not communicating that meaning. We were able then to take that photo, and then add in Stoney name for Lake Louise: Horâ Juthin Îmne, which is the Stoney translation for Lake of the Little Fishes. We thought that had more... more meaning and more reflective of what that place is. So when we have a chance to say "Yes, this is Horâ Juthin Îmne," that tells us that there's fish in there — small fish — And that there's also

additional names in that area that we haven't got yet. So I'm talking about Mirror Lake, and Lake Agnes, and other peaks in that area. It's really meaningful to be able to get to work on these types of images within the Stoney Nakoda. territory. The images have been used towards a process of colonization. So why can't we use those images towards the process of Indigenisation? It's taken 150 years to get to this point where we can relay some of these images. But now people know

Eric Higgs

The images are open to anybody who wants to use them. We built this custom database, called the Mountain Legacy Explorer, and it holds all our historic images and all our repeat photographs. We collaborate with the National Archives in doing this. And so that's been a big commitment for us — is to daylight these images to make sure that people can get access to them.

Bill Snow

And then not only do we have that as a tool, but then it speaks to us now to say "What are we going to do about it? Are we going to take all those images and put them in nice frames and keep them on the shelf? Or are we going to take what they're saying, and apply it?" Is that something that can be impressed upon regulators and government to say "This is how we need to be managing landscapes towards. This is how we need to be providing access for wildlife."

Jenna Falk

You know, we're fascinated with change, at the same time as being really afraid of it sometimes. We don't like change, but we also love to study it, whether it's one day to the next in our flower garden, or 120 years to the next in a mountain pass. And through these photographs, we have such a unique perspective in the Rockies to see that long term change that we don't necessarily in low lying areas. So I think it's for anybody to recognize that landscapes change for many

reasons, and they're going to keep changing. And with climate change, there's a sense of loss when we lose the landscapes that are familiar to us. But there's also, I think, a good reminder in these photographs that we have an opportunity to support species and ecosystems through that inevitable change.

Mendel Skulski

And if you'd like to dig into that longterm change for yourself, you can explore all the photos and all the data of the Mountain Legacy Project at mountainlegacy.ca.

Adam Huggins

It's actually really cool, you can slide back and forth between the historical photo and the modern day photo and see the changes on a really, really detailed level.

Mendel Skulski

Yeah, and they're beautiful.

Adam Huggins

They are beautiful. This episode was made possible by a Pathways to Impact grant: mobilizing knowledge in support of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals,

Mendel Skulski

Specifically those pertaining to clean water, climate action, and life on land.

Adam Huggins

And of course, the Mountain Legacy Project itself wouldn't have been possible without all of the people that you heard here, and many, many more.

Mendel Skulski

So thanks to Eric Higgs, Jeanine Rhemtulla, Rob Watt, Mary Sanseverino, Jill Delaney, Andrew Trant, Alina Fisher, Brian Starzomski, and Bill Snow.

Adam Huggins

And the amazing field team alumni, including Julie Fortin, Kristin Walsh, Jenna Falk, and Sandra Fray.

Mendel Skulski

Plus everyone who we didn't get to speak to: Rick Arthur, Ian MacLaren, Navarana Smith, and countless others — grad students, helicopter pilots, archivists, etcetera, etcetera.

Adam Huggins

Future Ecologies is a completely independent production. So thanks as always, to our patrons who support this show. To join them and get early episode releases, extended interviews and other bonus content, including access to the best Discord server on the web, go to patreon.com/futureecologies.

Mendel Skulski

This episode was produced by me, Mendel Skulski.

Adam Huggins

And me Adam Huggins

Mendel Skulski

With music by Thumbug, Erik Tuttle, Shadow Acid, Sage Palm, and Sunfish Moon Light. Okay, see ya!

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