Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas - podcast cover

Full Grain Podcast with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas

Phil Kalas, Nick Horweenlinktr.ee

For leather nerds! The finest leather, boots, shoes, bags, raw denim, drinks, watches, and more. Leather tannery veterans Nick Horween (5th generation, Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Founder, Ashland Leather) cover manufacturing, leather, boots, denim, everyday carry and the talented people who are creating the world's finest products. Get the inside scoop and a greater understanding for high quality goods with a new episode released every week.

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Episodes

Made for the NFL

Dan Rigele is the former plant manager of the Wilson Sporting Goods factory in Ada, Ohio, where NFL footballs have been made for decades. Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/2055770/support Support the sh...

Aug 06, 202542 min

AI, Architecture, & Craftsmanship: A Designer's Take on the Future - MAKR

Our most listened to guest is back! Jason Gregory from Makr disusses a wide range of topics from inspiration, AI impacts, architecture, creation, and more. This episode of the "Full Grain Podcast" features a conversation with guest Jason Gregory, founder of MAKR. The discussion covers a variety of topics, including the podcast's popularity and Jason's background in architecture and design. He shares details about a project to design a research facility for animals in Florida and his process of l...

Jul 16, 20251 hr 36 min

Wyatt's Favorite Grant Stone Boots

In this exclusive interview, Wyatt Gilmore, CEO and founder of Grant Stone, shares his honest opinions on various boots and shoes. He's joined by industry titans Nick Horween of Horween Leather and Phil Kalas from Ashland Leather for a deep dive into footwear preferences, from his absolute favorites to those that just don't make the cut. https://www.grantstoneshoes.com/ Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ T...

Jul 09, 20251 hr 37 minSeason 1Ep. 63

NEW Viberg NYC Store Opening Soon

Get the exclusive scoop! In this interview, we're joined by Brett Viberg and Nick Horween. Brett shares exciting details about the upcoming Viberg NYC store, a major milestone for the brand. You'll hear about the new location at 262 Mott St., New York City, and the anticipated grand opening in July 2025. Find out what this new space means for the brand and what you can expect when you visit. https://viberg.com/ Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has ...

Jul 02, 20251 hr 6 minSeason 1Ep. 62

Q&A Oil-Tanned CXL & Curry Shell Cordovan

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your urgent leather questions! Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/products/everyday-belt-black Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show: https://www.buzzspr...

Mar 21, 20251 hrSeason 1Ep. 61

Skip Horween Explains Latigo, Illini Latigo, California Tanneries

Skip Horween describes Horween's Latigo and Illini Latigo variants. Illini Latigo's originates as Horween's version of California Latigo and is best used in belts, straps, and harnesses. Ashland Leather Everyday Belt in Black Illini Latigo: https://ashlandleather.com/products/everyday-belt-black Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.co...

Mar 14, 202534 minSeason 1Ep. 60

Nick (Stridewise) & Nick (Horween) Discuss Environmental Impact

Nick English (Stridewise) and Nick Horween (Horween Leather) discuss regulations and environmental impact of tanneries. Leather Working Group (LWG) audits and rates tanneries for responsible production and sourcing. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www...

Feb 03, 202540 minSeason 1Ep. 59

Wine Tasting for Leather - Live at Stitchdown Boot Camp 2024

Our first ever in-person podcast at Stitchdown's Boot Camp 2024 in Brooklyn, NYC. Nick Horween (Horween Leather) and Phil Kalas (Ashland Leather) explain everything you need to know about leather in under 1 hour. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.ho...

Jan 13, 202553 minSeason 1Ep. 58

Leather. And Why it's Still Good.

Nick investigates the question of "why does leather stay relevant in some places and go away in others?". Also discussed: Leather care and Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome & Boot Camp NYC 2024. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https:/...

Nov 11, 202441 minSeason 1Ep. 57

EP56: Q&A NEW Horween Leather Aspen, Waterproof CXL, Farm Boots

Nick and Phil answer your most pressing leather questions from YouTube. Leave your questions for us in the comments. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Supp...

Oct 15, 202450 minSeason 1Ep. 56

EP55: Skip Horween Leather Industry & Trade Shows

All Horween takeover. Nick and Skip Horween discuss the leather industry and trade shows. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show: https://www.b...

Oct 09, 202452 minSeason 1Ep. 55

EP54: Why is shell cordovan so expensive!?

Nick Horween explains why shell cordovan (and leather in general) is expensive. Cost breakdown includes hides, material, labor, regulations and more. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions t...

Sep 30, 202458 min

EP53: Horween SHUTDOWN & Maintaining a 100+ Year-Old Leather Tannery

Every year Horween performs scheduled maintenance on many pieces of equipment that are over 100 years old. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the sh...

Sep 16, 202444 minSeason 1Ep. 53

EP52: Nick's Handmade Boots & Horween Leather Co. Discuss Shell Cordovan

Shuyler Mowe (Nick’s Handmade Boots) and John Culliton (Horween Leather Sales) talk with Nick about boots, leather, challenges and more. https://nicksboots.com/ https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email ...

Aug 30, 20241 hr 30 minSeason 1Ep. 52

EP51: ICON 4x4 Jonathan Ward

Jonathan Ward (ICON 4x4) is an industrial designer and bespoke crafter of vehicles, clothing and leather goods. Jonathan shares his approach and philosophy when making things, and teaches us the importance of being passionate about what you do. ICON 4x4 https://www.icon4x4.com/ TLC 4x4 https://www.tlc4x4.com/ J Ward Collection https://www.instagram.com/jwardcollection/ Campfire Coats https://campfirecoats.com/ https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpo...

Aug 22, 20241 hr 51 minSeason 1Ep. 51

EP50: Horween Leather Tanner Explains Leather Finishing

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains drying methods and leather finishing. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.co...

Aug 13, 20241 hr 29 minSeason 1Ep. 50

EP49: Boot-Wearing Guide to Horween Leather

Stitchdown's writer, Zaid Hintzman, asks the best questions for boot fans interested in Horween leather. Nick and Phil explain the features and characteristics in many Horween leathers including shell cordovan, Horsebutt veg, CXL, Predator and more. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Chec...

Aug 06, 20241 hr 43 minSeason 1Ep. 49

EP48: Leather Tanning 101

Horween Tanner, Esteban Perez, explains leather tanning and retanning. Leave your tanning and finishing questions in the YouTube comments. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrain...

Jul 15, 20241 hr 13 minSeason 1Ep. 48

EP47: Dean Delray, Leather Jackets, Stand-Up Comedy

Dean Delray is a stand-up comedian, podcaster, design lover and jacket collector. https://www.deandelray.com/ https://www.instagram.com/deandelray/?hl=en https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questio...

Jul 08, 20241 hr 27 minSeason 1Ep. 47

EP46: Q&A Chromepak vs. CXL, Horween Pinnacle, Coffee Tanning, Why Pit Tan?

Nick Horween and Phil Kalas answer your most pressing leather questions. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmail.com Support the show: https://www.buzzsprout.com/205...

Jul 01, 202454 minSeason 1Ep. 46

EP45: Shell Cordovan, Dublin, Essex, Pit Tanning, Tree Barks

Nick and Phil explore the similarities and differences of Shell Cordovan and Horween’s Essex leather. Both leathers are tanned using the same blend of tree barks. Horween’s Essex leather can also be finished into other products including Horween’s Dublin and Derby. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's fine...

Jun 24, 20241 hr 7 minSeason 1Ep. 45

EP44: NBA Basketball Leather - Leather vs. Plastic

Nick explains why leather is the choice material for professional NBA basketball and NFL football players. Phil and Nick discuss material options and compare leather and plastic choices. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check our Horween Leather. https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr....

Jun 12, 202446 minSeason 1Ep. 44

EP43: 1940s Timber Tanned Calf Leather

First tanned in 1940, Timber Tanned Calf is a legacy leather that is as storied as it is beautiful. The formula was lost. Despite the tannery’s best attempts they have not been able to reproduce it. https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch it on YouTube https://youtu.be/OM7_YR03sCo Get a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life. Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ The world's finest leather. Check ...

May 28, 202459 minSeason 1Ep. 43

EP42: Horween Cypress, Latigo vs. CXL, Grey Colors, Small vs. Established Brands

Starting with the cowboy origins of Latigo leathers, Nick delves into the details of Cypress, one of Horween’s latest leather offerings. We explore the complexities involved in achieving specific colors like grey and white. Finally, we engage in a conversation about the unique competitive edges that both small and large brands possess. 0:00 Topics 0:30 Horween Cypress Leather 12:06 Grey Color & “Problem” Colors 25:59 Small Brands vs. Established 1:06:14 Favorites https://www.ashlandleather.c...

May 03, 20241 hr 13 minSeason 1Ep. 42

EP41: ⚡Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome⚡, Boot Camp, Leather Perspective

Ben Robinson from Stitchdown joins Nick Horween and Phil Kalas to chat Thunderdome, Boot Camp, and Leather. Congratulations to all of the winners of the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome. Boot Camp is October 12-13 in NYC. 0:00 What’s a podcast? 0:49 Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome 45:25 Boot Camp 57:35 Leather Perspective https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/ https://www.stitchdown.com/ https://www.ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Get a wallet that is made...

Apr 19, 20241 hr 22 minSeason 1Ep. 41

EP40: CXL is Overrated?💰 Is Alden Overpriced? WWII Boots, Dale’s Leatherworks

Asking the hard questions up top: Is Horween Chromexcel (CXL) leather overrated? Is Alden overpriced? Dale from Dale’s Leatherworks shares his opinions with Nick Horween and Phil Kalas. 0:00 American Original 1:08 Is CXL Overrated? 19:12 Is Alden Overpriced? 30:03 WWII Boots 38:47 Stuck in a boot world from 10+ years ago 52:38 Nick Q&A Lightning Round 1:00:38 Favorites https://www.youtube.com/@DalesLeatherworks https://dalesleatherworks.com/ https://ashlandleather.com/ https://www.horween.co...

Apr 12, 20241 hr 10 minSeason 1Ep. 40

EP39: Sam Parker, Context Clothing, Alden, Roy Boot, Wisconsin Footwear, Supper Clubs

Sam Parker is the co-founder of Context Clothing. He is one of the individuals behind the creation of the famous Roy Boot by Alden x Context. Context had a 15 year run and closed its doors in 2020. Sam now runs restaurants and bars in Madison Wisconsin: Turn Key Supper Club, Settle Down Tavern, and Ounce By Ounce. https://www.turnkeymadison.com/ https://www.settledownmadison.com/ https://www.ozbyozmadison.com/ 0:00 Context Clothing 11:34 Raw Denim & Forums 14:17 Alden 17:13 Roy Boot 24:01 Ma...

Apr 05, 20241 hr 23 minSeason 1Ep. 39

Ep38: Q&A Brain Tanning(!) Leather, Horween Predator, Horsebutt, Rancourt

Nick and Phil take on your hardest hitting leather questions including leather terms, brain tanning, leather delays, Horween’s Predator leather, horsebutt, sneakers and more. Need a wallet that is made for patina and is guaranteed for life? Ashland Leather has you covered. https://ashlandleather.com/ Want the world's finest leather? Check our Horween Leather . https://www.horween.com/ https://linktr.ee/fullgrainpodcast Watch on YouTube Follow on Instagram email questions to fullgrainpodcast@gmai...

Mar 29, 20241 hr 16 minSeason 1Ep. 38

EP37: Stridewise, Best Shell Cordovan, Veg vs. Chrome tan, Boot Collecting

Nick English is the owner of www.stridewise.com, a blog and YouTube channel focusing on boots and casual durable stuff. A wide range of leather and boot topics are covered including who makes the best shell cordovan, Horween Chromexcel leather, current trends, European style, loafers, veg tanning vs. chrome tanning, and many more. 0:00 Best Shell Cordovan 1:40 First Shell Cordovan Pair and Care 4:30 Horween Chromexcel Leather 9:47 Current Trends in the Boot Scene 18:59 European Style 22:40 Loafe...

Mar 22, 20241 hr 58 minSeason 1Ep. 37

EP: 36 WTF is Aniline? Aniline Leather & Leather Finishing🖌️

Are you considering aniline leather? Or perhaps a completely painted leather? Join Nick and Phil as they delve into various leather finishes, highlighting aniline leather. Leather can range from unfinished to fully finished, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. 0:00 What is Aniline Leather 8:29 Aniline etymology and marketing 14:06 Is aniline leather tough? 16:27 Leather finishing spectrum: Naked to Full 27:37 Finish application methods 38:26 Benefits of full finish 41:08 Finis...

Mar 15, 20241 hr 26 minSeason 1Ep. 36
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