In this episode, Kyra chats with Jesse Grupper, her good friend, roommate, and fellow Olympian. Jesse and Kyra start off by sharing some insight into their house and their similarities and differences when it comes to training mindset and planning. Jesse shares his thoughts about being an "underdog" in the past and how its helped him push himself and his limits while achieving benchmarked goals along the way. They then talk about how that's changed throughout the years. Jesse shares insight into...
Apr 07, 2025•56 min•Ep. 51
In this episode (episode 50!!) Kyra and Allison debate and explain the new scoring system being implemented in IFSC and many other international and national events. There are big changes this year, where the old tops and zones format was changed to purely be point based. Kyra and Allison lightly disagree about how they define the "best" climber in a round; is it the climber getting the most tops or the climber consistently getting the farthest on all the climbs? Listen to find out! Comment to l...
Mar 21, 2025•35 min•Ep. 50
In this episode of Circle Up!, Kerry Scott shares her journey through the ups and downs of her climbing career. She talks about transitioning from competitions to outdoor climbing—and then back again—and how moving across the country to work in the climbing industry influenced her path. Kerry reflects on the pressure she felt to downplay her competitive side, something she realized wasn’t encouraged in young women the way it often is in men, something both Kyra and Allison heavily relate to. She...
Mar 10, 2025•1 hr 8 min•Ep. 49
In this episode of Circle Up!, Kyra and Allison revisit a conversation Kyra had with Dan about climbing with a romantic partner—this time, flipping the script and asking Allison for her take. The two dive into the nuances of sharing projects, time, and training with someone you’re dating, leading to a bigger discussion on how relationships intersect with high-level climbing. Then, Kyra breaks down her experience at a recent grip competition in LA, what she learned, and why grip sport might actua...
Mar 04, 2025•33 min•Ep. 48
In this episode, Kyra is joined by Dan Beall (who's stepping in for Allison while she's off crushing boulders in Vegas) and together they dive into the moments when they first saw major breakthroughs in their own climbing and talk about what they believe made the difference. Then, they explore a common challenge among climbers: truly trying hard. Many unknowingly hold themselves back in training, stopping short of their full potential because unlocking 100% effort can be uncomfortable and . Kyra...
Feb 20, 2025•39 min•Ep. 47
In this episode, Kyra is joined by returning guest Dan Beall to tackle some big questions: What are tactics, really? How can you best support your romantic partner while climbing? And how do you adjust expectations when health or life complications shift your plans? They bring up common mistakes to avoid both indoors and out while talking about tactics and both share how they focus when they find themselves thinking too much. They swap opinions on what makes the best climbing gyms, with Kyra mak...
Jan 29, 2025•46 min•Ep. 46
In this episode, Kyra sits down with Campbell Harrison, Australian Olympic climber and passionate advocate for athlete representation, to explore a wide range of topics. They discuss the impacts of social media on their careers and mental health, and how it can be especially challenging following the Olympic explosion in popularity. They talk about the outdoor industry as a whole, and how climbing stars may be outgrowing the scope of the climbing industry in years to come. The conversation then ...
Jan 06, 2025•1 hr 1 min•Ep. 45
In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into their lesser known backgrounds as lead climbers and how it has shaped their skills as primarily boulderers. They share their favorite exercises and drills for training endurance and discuss why reflecting on your goals can help you modify your training to stay on track. They explore the challenges of climbing well while pumped, overcoming fear to push your limits, and the value of rest and focused attempts over grinding through fatigue. Whether you’re ...
Dec 30, 2024•32 min•Ep. 44
In this Episode, Kyra Condie and Dan Beall went into the recent top posts from r/climbharder and talked about some of the topics and themes they saw reoccur in recent hot posts. They talk about how, if you want to, to avoid "life as a mediocre climber" and what small changes and tweaks you can make to your attitude and everyday schedule to improve your climbing. Then, they break down the art of projecting—what it truly means to push your limits and challenge yourself on a climb. Plus, they debat...
Dec 09, 2024•48 min•Ep. 43
In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into listener questions from their Patreon, covering everything from building finger strength and improving crimp endurance to valuable lessons learned from their youth competition days. The conversation meanders through a variety of related topics, including when to consult a PT—whether for an injury or strength training, current trends in climbing science, and how climbing parents can stay engaged and advocate for safe, inclusive environments within youth...
Dec 04, 2024•36 min•Ep. 42
In this episode Kyra brings on her parents once again to talk about what they do to support her at competitions and how they supported her dream of becoming a professional climber. Currently being in Santiago at the Panamerican Championships, they talk about specifics around supporting Kyra while at an event. Later, Tom, Kyra’s dad provides some insight into his theory of providing guardrails but casting a wide net of possibilities for your kid, while Cathy, Kyra’s mom, shares some of her own up...
Nov 25, 2024•36 min•Ep. 41
In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highba...
Nov 11, 2024•36 min•Ep. 40
This week, Kyra and Allison get real about the struggle to balance their climbing obsession with the reality of needing rest days. The talk about the challenges of having a never-ending season both in competitions and with outdoor climbing (something is always "in-season") and how hard it can be to time things correctly between varying schedules and time windows. They chat about trying to stay in peak shape through that never-ending season and share some of their own experiments with training sc...
Oct 31, 2024•33 min•Ep. 39
In this episode, Kyra recounts her past two trips to Rocklands, South Africa for climbing trips and how she approached her third one differently than the first two. She remembers some lessons learned from her first trip in 2016, what she did wrong (like switching birth control right before leaving), what she would have done differently, and how that changed her whole approach to climbing outside in general. Sometimes, finding what motivates you is the most important.
Oct 14, 2024•32 min•Ep. 38
In this episode of the Beta & Banter series Kyra and Allison chat about how to deal with a self deprecating climbing partner, when (and how) to avoid an ex at the climbing gym, and how does all that advice carry over to climbing with your romantic partner. other questions included what their opinions are of the recent age limit change in IFSC and how an unfunded athlete does the World Cup series. Tune in to hear all of their advice, beta, and banter!
Oct 09, 2024•41 min•Ep. 37
In this episode, Allison and Kyra dive into the tricky world of climbing etiquette and ethics—both indoors and outdoors. From navigating social situations, like approaching someone with headphones in at the gym or downgrading someones "first of the grade", to managing the vibe at the crag when loud music takes over; they break down common dilemmas. Tune in as they explore how to balance personal preferences with respect for the climbing community, offering insights and practical tips for climber...
Sep 30, 2024•35 min•Ep. 36
In this episode Kyra and Allison dive into the exciting world of paraclimbing and its growth into becoming a Paralympic sport. Special guest Mo Beck, a 2X World Champion Paraclimber and 10 time AU2 Paraclimbing National Champion, shares her experiences and insights on the growth of adaptive climbing, the challenges and triumphs of competing at the highest level, and her professional climbing career. Mo discusses her journey, the incredible athletes in the sport, and how the paraclimbing communit...
Sep 09, 2024•54 min•Ep. 35
In this episode, Kyra is joined once again by her good friend and fellow pro climber, now an Olympian, Campbell Harrison. Together, they dive into Campbell's unforgettable experience at the Paris 2024 Olympics. They discuss everything from what Australia did best in the Olympic Village to Campbell's reflections on his performance on the world’s biggest stage. Looking ahead, they explore what the future holds and how training might evolve as the countdown to the 2028 Games begins.
Aug 26, 2024•1 hr 3 min•Ep. 34
Allison and Kyra give their unfiltered thoughts and feelings about the Men's and Women's Combined Finals at the Olympics in Paris. From whether their predictions were corrects, to heartbreaking moments and dealing with performance pressure, hear their recap and insights into what the athletes might have been feeling on the biggest sports stage in the world!
Aug 11, 2024•59 min•Ep. 33
Allison and Kyra give their thoughts on the first 4 days of the Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing events. From heartbreaks to broken world records, there was so much excitement in the first 4 days that everyone is excited to see what the next two days has in store. From their own predictions of who will be on the podium to Kyra's insights on the emotional toll of the olympics; here are their unfiltered thoughts!
Aug 08, 2024•44 min•Ep. 32
In this first episode of “Beta & Banter” Kyra and Allison answer questions from the listeners! This will likely become a regular segment or work in as stand alone episodes of the podcast. From how to avoid burnout as a youth climber to how to deal with being the “worst” climber of your group of friends, we try our best to answer your climbing queries with practical and personal advice.
Jul 08, 2024•42 min•Ep. 31
This week’s episode is Kyra and Allison’s first attempt at recording with each other online instead of in person, so sorry for any audio quality differences! Allison and Kyra start by chatting about the impact route setting has on injuries we see at competitions and the challenging job of route setters, specifically in relation to recent World Cups and Olympic Qualifying Series. They talk about dangerous moves, resent fails and wins, and who clinched their Olympic berth in Budapest! Let us know ...
Jul 03, 2024•43 min•Ep. 30
In this week's episode, Kyra and her mom, Cathy, talk about Cathy's career as an electrical engineer in the biomedical space. Cathy shares some personal stories from when she was in school, the challenges of raising two kids while getting her Master's Degree from the University of Minnesota, and some words of wisdom from her years in a male-dominated industry (much like the climbing world is, or has been). Kyra speaks on some of her experiences and ways she tries to fight the patriarchy with "mi...
Jun 14, 2024•35 min•Ep. 29
Welcome to our first episode of Hot Takes! Wondering about socks in your climbing shoes? If climbing a harder grade makes you immune to being a "gumby"? Or have you ever wondered if climbing v15 or getting a sub 5 second time on the speed wall is more impressive? Kyra and Allison share all their personal opinions on lister requested topics!
Jun 03, 2024•34 min•Ep. 28
In this episode Campbell Harrison, future Olympian and World Cup climber from Australia, takes Allison's place alongside Kyra. They talk about competition stresses, imposter syndrome, mental health, training far from home, the trials and tribulations of addressing RED-s in climbing, and their time spent together on the IFSC Athlete commission. They banter about ways they hope to make change as well as their want to be a role model for the future generation. *TW*: mental health and eating disorde...
May 27, 2024•44 min•Ep. 27
Allison and Kyra tackle the subject of mental and physical plateaus in this week's episode. From how to turn mentally "weak" days into successful sessions and tricks to switch up your training (or when to back off) when you're in a rut.
May 13, 2024•29 min•Ep. 26
In this episode Allison takes on an interviewer role and talks to Kyra about her "back story". They cover how Kyra originally found out she had scoliosis, the surgery, the Olympics, and learning to cope with having a form of a disability. Should be interesting for those with and without scoliosis!
May 08, 2024•33 min•Ep. 25
Allison and Kyra recap the recent start to the world cup season both with Kyra's attendance at the events and general thoughts about how competitions are run and what could be done better/different in the future. They talk about weather-related delays, the new trends in route-setting, Kyra's attitude at the first competitions of the season, and more!
Apr 29, 2024•28 min•Ep. 24
Kyra and Allison catch up about what they've been doing during their podcasting break. They give insight into some of their life updates and how they use body cues to know when they should back off training or increase training load. They also talk about the pros and cons of using a training journal, what they do instead currently, and the attitude in climbing/sport of glorifying "the grind". They finish up with a fun Q&A with both climbing related and non-climbing related topics.
Apr 29, 2024•37 min•Ep. 23
Kyra and Allison break down everything you need, and didn't need, to know about what has happened thus far on the Road to Paris 2024. Starting with a recap of the excitement and World Championships, they go into a play by play of what happened and who qualified at every Olympic Qualifying Event so far for Sport Climbing.
Nov 20, 2023•40 min•Ep. 22
