Hi, my name is Anzolo Bakke and this is Business of HYPEBEAST. If you're looking for clickbait, you best to keep on stepping because all of me and T are doing today is letting y'all know what time it is. We're going to talk a lot about the difficulties and challenges associated with the come-up over the course of this season, but what Tremaine has been through over the past few years as an entirely different story.
From a lower aortic aneurysm to a controversial and extremely public departure from his role as Creative Director of Supreme, we are truly blessed that he's still with us. I'm sure you got your opinions, but I encourage you to stop talking and take a second to listen because the dialogue has started and if you ignore it, you're going to fall behind. I am Holdon TSC, catch up, let's go. What's up, how's everyone doing?
My name is Anzolo Bakke, I am the founder and Creative Director of Awake New York and today I have the pleasure to be accompanied by someone I consider not a friend but a best friend, a colleague, a brother, a companion in this journey that I've been in for over 20 years. He's a multi-disciplinary, so I might say, Jack of all trades, master of some.
I bring to you Tremaine, Emory, Tremaine, if you don't mind, taking a few seconds to, I guess give your version of who you are and what you do to the listeners and viewers. Cool. Yo, thanks for having me, man. Pleasure to be here with you. I'm Anzolo Bakke, I'm a contemporary and I am a designer, artist, founder of Dynum Tears, Creative Director of Dynum Tears, co-founder, Creative Director of No Bakke, seeing.
Yeah. Cool. So T, what we're going to talk about today is just kind of like doing a little kind of pullback and viewing of the past, the present, and the future of streetwear and fashion. As a whole, I think let's start with the past. What changes and what shifts have you seen in the last five years happen in our world?
The main changes I've seen in the world of, you know, Cree and Cloving, guys and girls that look like us, and from where we're from, Cree and Cloving is the interest from big money, big brands, and how can we help big brands so their items or promote their products or how can we be at their fashion shows or so on and so forth, you know, like so many things.
So it's been interesting across the board, across music, across art, you know, I mean it's all art, but what society considers which art, what's music, and what's, you know, fashion, clothing, seeing, yeah, just seeing art tribe, like, go places we've never gone before, but also seeing things not change so much.
So that's been like the kind of like, I think that's the tension where it's like so much as change, but then so much hasn't changed, like, you know, let's say how certain designers are referred to not, they're not seen as just designers, you know, stuff like that hasn't really changed much. It's been, you know, been that way and it's still the perception of certain designers versus others.
Yeah, but that's what I would say, the big change is just seeing big corporate conglomerates and companies interested in what we do, because we've been doing what we've done, right? I met you in front of a union store over 20 years ago, union, you know what I mean? So me and you and our tribe, the people, we've been, we've been watching the movies, go to film form, whatever it is, all the things we've been doing that.
So it's just like maybe I guess the commercial world is caught up in the last five or ten year. Yeah, I kind of late. Yeah, I'm late. But that's what they do best, you know, because yeah, what we did back in, you know, 99 and 2000 was considered underground, the things that were into the music we listened to, the art we were in, we were into it way before.
Any, you know, contemporary rapper decided to like shout out Basiqueat in a lyric like that was our favorite art, you know, that's our hero, you know what I mean? That was somebody that, you know, I looked at as being like the original like counter-culture disruptive like fucking up the art system. Yeah. And kind of having this plant, like a marketing plan, you know what I mean? Yeah. Like if you really studied what he did, like, like he, he, he, he worked the system to his benefit, right?
And when I think about the last five years, kind of like, you know, echoing what you just said, you know, I remember there was always this wanting validation from luxury, right? You know, like especially for where we come from the school that we come from, especially like school design and things that, you know, we thought, oh, I'll speak for myself. I found aspirational, right? That I wanted to be a part of. I thought I needed to be able to like reach up and take a bit of that. Same. Right?
And I feel like it's been flipped around in the last five years where like you're saying is like there's a not. Yes, from the big conglomerates, there is a necessity for to tap into our world. To be able to communicate to this new customer that they're trying to tap into. Yeah. But I think that first line, even before we get to the big conglomerates, it's been luxury. Yeah. And, you know, for example, like, shout out to you for, you know, working on a project with VR.
Yeah. You know, to me, it's a fucking trip. I went out and saw you posting like the banners of the photos of the campaign and like, I go, Yamaha, right, or like, or Motosando, you know, like, I know exactly where those bands are going to find them. Like, that's huge. Yeah. Yeah, man. It was a trip and super grateful. And only, and it's funny, you bring it up because it's just like, I was thinking about it this week because Kim had his show, your show this week. And it couldn't be there.
But it was just like, interesting because it was more so like for me, it was like the relationship with Kim. You know what I mean? You know, something we all, you've known him. We've all known him for a long time. Good dude. And seeing a relationship and respect. And then him, seeing me cut my teeth and become a designer and then build a brand and then the brand gained, you know, get going and then haven't been like, hey, you want to collab. It's pretty amazing, you know?
And outside of the business side of it, you know, but I definitely still, I don't think it's hit me. Maybe like I got to see like the, I don't know, in 20 years, see someone wearing like a beat up de-or-tier is like sure to something like that. And then I'll like, it'll really hit me. I think it's like, I just think also because what I've been through the last year with my health, you know, as you know, I was in the hospital with that collection. It was a premiered in Egypt and stuff.
So I feel like I haven't really taken it in or like maybe I put it somewhere in my brain right because I was like, I had so much, basically more important things going on in my life. So it's kind of like, it's like a black spot for me. But I'm super proud of the collection. I love seeing people wear it and I love that it exists. You know, I got, do you always generous enough to give me an archive of all the items? So I have it in my archive.
So it's like, just a little stuff like that, like I, you know, one day will have a kid be like, hey, you know, I did this, the sign of the third. It's, and I did it with a friend and that's kind of what it all comes back to me. Not downplaying the whole deal or part of it. But stuff, you know, I've done what you can. I could go a list of people. That's like the beautiful part for me.
That's where I try to find my validation and they're working with you guys and getting like kudos from you guys and trying, trying to, I'm working on myself to not seek validation from the things I used to. Right. Because it usually fails you know, I mean, whereas you got, you know, you're, you're a perfect example. You don't fail me as a friend and as a, as a, a comrade, you know.
So if you were, even if you did tell me one day we could talk about it, you know what I mean, the compassion and care there. Right. Right. Vice versa, you know. So that's what I'm over the last couple of years. Like really focusing on that, you know, so. I'm always good for sliding into the remains. The am's like once a year to be like, I need that.
And if you don't, and I'll totally step off the subject every don't mind because you glazed over it really quick and ask someone that's been as close to you all these years, you know, it wasn't tremendous being an asshole. It remained had a near death experience. Yeah, yeah. Over a little over a year ago. Yeah. And it would, you know, it wasn't my experience, but I'll tell you right now, like as, as your friend, you know, as your brother, you know, like it's something that, that rocked me.
It scared me because, you know, unfortunately, we've lost a lot of friends over the last couple of years. So yeah, you know, like for me to work with a brand like Dior would be like a top 10 moment in career and life. And then, you know, you're going through this, this period of like you're literally fighting for your life. Yeah. You know, I was there. You're there. I was there. You know, I mean, you're literally there.
Yeah. You know, do you mind speaking on that moment of like, yeah, of course. Yeah. Of course. Yeah. I mean, it was just like the best times of the worst of times because like, I got to see the love that people like you and Andy and A side and so many people, Chris, whatever I could name Anthony, my man Anthony Specter, you know, so many people, a group, small group of people gave me and my, you know, my greatest moment of need, my dad. And so that was the beautiful part.
The horrible part was going through the experience, you know, being in the hospital for three months, almost dying three times in those three months. And the recovery, which is still still, you know, part of my life every day might be a part of my life for rest of my life. But you know, the main thing low is gratefulness.
You know, even like coming here, I was like, damn, I remember low, coming to see me at the ICU, low, coming to see me when I was in between ICU and rehab, coming to see me and rehab, I remember you went away, you came like, yo, I'm going away for a bit, I'm going to come see you before I go away.
You know, all that is like beautiful memories, even though it was super, you know, it, like you said, it wasn't, you like, it wasn't my experience, it was because I do feel, even you asked me the first question about the last five years, I, the other thing that came
my head is like the last five years has been a lot of loss, especially these last two or three years, you know, with the names that people know, because of their celebrity and also names people don't know, you know, like Sponto, where everyone, you know, people know Sponto, people know V and, you know, Megan, you know, we just, we just lost, you know, Brian's partner and yeah, our friend and rest in peace, you know, so many people that are a part of this, this thing of ours are gone.
I think that's another thing I've really made me want to just enjoy the people more than the stuff. So, you know, that's, that's what I think the main thing to have in a lower aortic aneurysm and almost being out of here was just like enjoying the people, you know, obviously we still can't see each other as much as we did in our younger years because of, we have more responsibilities and we have families that we help take care of and take care, depend on us.
So it's not like back in the day where like you come to London and I see you like, you're London for seven days, I see you four out of those, four or five out of those days, you know, and ain't like that anymore. But going to Scotch. Going to Scotch, doing, you know, DJ, you know, putting together parties for no reason. Yeah. But Angela's in town, put together a party, you know what I mean, for free or whatever.
So it just made me lock into the people that were really there for me and also made me be like, well, make sure I'm there for people when they go through their thing, you know, that's the main thing I learned from that. And then, yeah, but also to the do you think I think it made me, I always have perspective. So that's the thing. A lot of people like, oh, did almost Diane give you more new life perspective? No, because I grew up, you know, my pops, he's a talker.
He's a Southern philosopher, you know what I mean? So my dad always was kicking to us, my mom about the importance of living in the moment and not taking life for granted and having fun, you know, and it could end at any moment. So I didn't gain that perspective. I did gain the perspective of, you know, when we're like, when you're in the hospital, you come hang out with me for two hours and however long.
He wasn't talking about clothing or any, you know, we just talking about us life or whatever, you know, so it definitely did make all of it less important to me, you know, not that I don't mean, it made me want to quit or anything like that. But it didn't even like, it didn't lessen my drive. I still got the like, the hunger, but it just, far as the result, I'm still going to work my ass off and do my best to my abilities.
But the result don't matter so much to me, the peanut gallery, the critics, this and also the adulation don't matter as much because I got pulled out of it for like a year. You know what I mean? Literally, you know, I was on injured reserve. I was just out the game for a minute, just watching and it gave me a difference perspective.
And for life perspective, I had done already, but far as a perspective on the game, you know, like I've never put myself in a situation where stress is, I'm stressed out, you know I mean, because it ain't any worth it. Any that's serious. And you focused a lot on, you know, post facing your own mortality and how it affected kind of like life, but how did it affect your creative process now and work? I got to be more strategic with my town, you know, due to my physical therapy regimen.
And you know, one of the keys to my recovery has been sleep. So you know, I didn't sleep a lot before, you know, not because I was out partying every night or anything like that was because. I was because I wasn't out partying every night, but a lot of it was just, you know, up late, up early and on a lot of a lot of flights. So, you know, that's, that's been curtailed where it's like it's all got to fit within me getting my nontin.
I was asleep, fit within me doing my three days of physical therapy, me and then getting energy and yeah, just not pushing it anymore, you know, so that's, and if I got to like miss out on an opportunity or something like that, then you know, I mean, so be it, you know, still work hard, still, you know, in my office, in my office every day, but just within everything within reason, you know, and I urge that for my colleagues, my employees too, is to work hard, but also take it easy. Right.
Also, it's made me think about time in a way, in a way, what do I want to spend my time doing because, yeah, it's like you have to, you have to experience it, you know, it's like you have to just be that close to being out of here. And then it's like some reason you get a chance that most people don't get a second chance.
Actually, I got like a second, first, second and third chance and like a, as you know, you're on those group text, group text messages, you're there, second, first and third chance. So just about using my time, how do I want to use my time? And also the legacy, what's the legacy I want to leave with my work, most importantly, with people? Because even that, at a funeral, no one really talks about your design, people talking about type, you know, how funny, what kind of human way.
Yeah, how funny were you? Yeah. He helped me out, you know, he gave me a hug when I was crying, blah, blah, blah. We had fun, you know, so that's, that's, that's, so that gave me, I definitely think about that to the time I spend.
So you know, now my main priority is like my wife, my health and my wife and my family, my friends, and then work, you know, I can't say that was always the case, you know, because I had this drive, especially after my mom died, I had this drive to prove, you know, you, again, you were there, you, you and Shaq and Rod sent flowers to Harlem Georgia for my mom's funeral.
I remember I still got the card, but you probably even seen the difference from when my mom was alive to have to, she died like, you know, just the drive of like, I had something to not prove, but to her not, her all the sacrifices she made for my entire family, not being vain.
But I was really my drive to what the world is seeing the last, you know, my mom should be February 18th, I mean, nine years, she died the last 10 years, people of the work, I put out across every artist or brand or thing I've done with A side or virtual or with you or blah, blah, blah, all the stuff I've done, it's been like the drive was been, it was tunnel vision, you know, I mean.
And correct me from wrong, what I'm hearing is like, it's one thing to view a family member or a close friend passing away and then it makes you reflect on your own mortality, right? And then it drives because that's what's happened to me. Yeah. With with V passing and spinal passing is like, oh, like, I got to go hard. Yeah. But then when it's your own. Yeah. When is your own experience? Yeah. You know, I feel like it's not so much ego driven, right?
It's for me, I admit, it's ego driven that I need to go hard. Why? Because I need to make more money or I need to do this. And it's not like what I hear for you is just like this firsthand experience of, you know, your time being up here, it's as actually like softened your existence and being able to prioritize what matters most. Yeah. Right? Straight up, you know, not definitely, definitely, definitely softened it, you know, because it's like, I get an example.
Well, my move back to New York February, February 14th, 2022 and my dad lives in New York. And me and my dad have a great relationship. He lives in Fort Green. We were seeing each other get him out. But really, how much was I seeing on my pops? When I got sick, he was in the hospital, you know, I mean, every day, you know, I mean, six o'clock he come in to 11 and hang out. So it was like, I was like, damn, man, we should have hung out more. You know what I mean?
We should have went to more Yankee games. So that's just an example of like, you know what I mean? I wasn't, I wasn't, I was just so focused on, you know, I was doing pre-ing, working on a New York tears collection. I just finished up my last duty collection, working on denim tears collection, all these all this, you know, preaching to the choir.
So on the flight every other week that at us, so it was just like, so that's why when I got sick, I remember when I had a hand in an aneurysm and I was waiting for the EMS, I was like, damn, man. I was like, I got a little brother as you know, McCoy, he's turning for me for this year. And I literally, my two thoughts was like, I just, not now, I need more time with McCoy and Andy. That was one of two things.
You know, I just started dating this woman who's now become my wife and then my little brother, it was like, damn, I need more time. I want to hang out with McCoy and I want to spend more time with Andy, you know what I mean? And I was a Michael from back, it was also more so everyone that I love in that way. Like I love Andy, love McCoy, love you, love my dad. I just spend more time.
So that's yeah, that is the thing that has soft for me is just like, my thing is now, I still want to be a great, prolific designer artist, but it has to be in balance with enjoying my friends and enjoying it. And also my own personal things, it's remained like to do dolo, have nothing to do with none of this stuff, you know? And I don't know, listen in, like I've been listening to Thin Rizio a week. Just, you know what I mean?
Just like, cool, that's just my thing, born, born, some vinyls, doing some research on the band, da da da, just has nothing to do with nothing and making time for it, man, making time for it, making time for everything, you know? You're always surprising, which you're musical choices. I love whiskey and a jar. And of course, the boys are back in town. And the boys are like the, like, broy, half of them, but you always crack me up.
Oh, remember the first time you post the replacements, all the fuck you're making all the fuck them up. But, you know, to make, you know, like, you know, watching you grow as a creative, last couple of years, and to be, like you're saying, like our tribe and our collective, you know, we've always been big on intention, right? Put on intention in the work and intention and design and, you know, the messaging that we put out there.
And I remember one of the last conversations that we had together as a group with V, I remember he coined us like the native tongues of streetwear, right? Because- He kept saying that. Yeah, he kept calling us the native tongues of streetwear and us being from Queens, like they always resonated extra hard because, you know, tribe, and for me, like tribe was always the lighthouse. It gives exactly, you know, to me, that doesn't get any better than those first three albums.
But the reason why I bring that up is like, when people ask me about like post, you know, post-leaving supreme, you know, what has been one of my biggest, I would say like achievements and I would say it's bringing like some kind of consciousness to streetwear, right? And the work that we do, and, you know, for me, it's been a give back and for you. What I told you recently, you know, like to me, your hands down the best storyteller streetwear. Oh man, thanks.
I think there's something that's something that nobody can fuck with you on that, you know, specifically, you know, being able to tell the, you know, the black and African-American experience, you know, through clothing and through design. And I always feel, you know, like I always go back to like PNB Nation and, you know, like these, these clothing brands, like the early 90s, I would Easter egg information on the back of the tag, you know, you can have like a Huey P Newton coat.
And so now I have to go figure out who Huey is. And for us, we have to really put the message out front in order for people to receive it, right? That, I say all of that for this question is like, you know, where do you see on a scale of one to ten, where do you see like the morality, the level of morality and streetwear right now? Great question. I appreciate that compliment. It means a lot to me coming from you a lot.
It was bugged out at the wake stroke and then a dude had on the absurred T-shirt that blew my mind. I bought that T-shirt from Union 20 years ago, anyway, answer your question. I think I think that I think that there is a lack of parity in given that when you have a greater, you know, what I call streetwear, sportswear, what everybody would call it. There is lack of parity in the intention of the club.
And the thing is, it doesn't always have to be the way me and you do it, or let's say And it doesn't, so you can convey the POC experience without it being like red, black and green. Just in the fact, you know, it's even like there's a, you know, there's a sort of trailer for a film called, with Jeffrey Wright in it, and he's a writer, and he goes, I'm black, so the book is black, yeah.
You know what I mean? Like, it's like, you can convey who you are as a person of color, a woman, queer, whatever. Just in a myriad, a myriad of ways. I just don't know if that's being done. I don't know if people are coming from the gut. It doesn't have to be fist, pro anything, but just, I don't know, I don't feel it coming from people's guts. And, you know, sometimes you just can't, you gotta meet the person, and then, you know, then you're like, oh, actually it is.
But from what I'm seeing, from what I mean, I'm not seeing much of it. There are guys and girls out there doing it, you know? I do feel like we're at, it's like, we're a little rogue squadron, you know? Yeah, people always laugh at me, I always use Star Wars parables, but it'd be working, you know?
George is on the something, and I feel like the bigger thing of what's going on now is like the Empire, and then you have the real squadron, little brand, you know, awake, you know, denim tears, beach joy, Cortez, you know, bravado, so on and so forth, barriers. Barriers, you know what I mean, barter.
You know, like keep name is some more, some more, you know, Wells, Bonna, Martin, you know, Martin Rose, they are brands out there that are, and not to get to, I also want to be able to acknowledge the brands coming out of West Africa too, you know, free the youth.
Yeah, you know, so like I see some of our influence because they tell me so I'm not trying to take credit, you know, those, those cats telling me, you know, like how we've been wafed, like, all the cats coming out of Legos and a cry, you know, like, yeah, I learned, I learned about thanks to Grace, you know, I mean, doing the home, you know, shout the grace and the social, the home doing going out there twice, homecoming, twice, I hope to now that I'm healthy to be able to go out there again.
Um, yeah, so I think it's a little road squadron of guys and girls that are making me fit, that's my whole thing is just like, you don't got to tell stories the way I do what a way low does, but just come from the gut, and whatever that is, you know, that's what the game needs,
the game needs the feeling, you know, obviously we got to run, we got to run a business, want you in need to run our businesses in the black and make be able to pay people's health insurance, you know, we, you on the same wave, like we take care of our employees to the best we
can, you know, and so we need to put out products that sell, but you know, there's a way to do that and still, the stuff going on, you know, the world's brutal, the world is a dark place, and I think it takes talking about the human condition across everything to help change things,
you know, not just on CNN, but you know, everyone, I'm not saying that everyone's responsibility, I know people, just some people are just like, I just want to do my thing, have fun when I'm making clothing, and that's it, that's
cool. I feel when I'm making clothing too, every, every, every story we tell what our clothing is in a sad story, you know, even that, like I hear that, like did them tears, you know, talking about black trauma, I'm like, no, I'm not, I got stories about Alvin Ailey, homing in a project with the Tiger, saw and so forth, you know, like there's lots of beautiful fun, you know, weird stories that I'm telling that have you
have to come out yet? And some stuff is about, you know, the the cross, the plaintiffs slavery, but it's not every, it's not the whole, but it's not the whole brand, you know, so just like every awake thing isn't about, fuck the system, you know,
you talk about all kinds of stuff. Yeah, and sometimes the stuff you talk about, you know, even put it on the nose, you just have to really, it's like an Easter egg, same thing with denim tears, I don't, there's stuff that people buy get, because every single thing I design has research in it, I just don't always put out there, break down each, each, each day I go all the time, because it's like, we have time for
that. So it's interesting that you bring up so that that Jefferite film is American fiction and actually want to go
see that a few weekends ago. And yeah, you know, some, unfortunately, like some change doesn't really happen, this change is this change that yes has happened in the last five years, you know, post, you know, George Floyd and you know, all the social and kind of like, and like kind of like racial challenges that have happened, you know, and that's kind of pressure, you know, you know, these systems have changed, but
they really haven't. And yeah, you know, white people still want to like feed into like these narratives like where they're the savior, right? You know, and you know, shit, you know, I still deal with some of that shit too, you know, like right now as someone that's, you know, trying to have their business grow and, and you know, as a creative director and you know, like, you know, frustrations of like, you know, I hope build the billion dollar company, you know, like, why is it my
phone ringing, you know, post leaving suppression? You know, what I mean, and I see this other creative director using the same photographers I use that I help build, same stylists that I help build, using the models that I help find, but yet,
yelling, calling me, you know what I mean? So, you know, the whole point of me isn't, I'm not here trying to like harp on my story, but you know, back back to you, you know, is kind of like what what have been some of the challenges that you face like these kind of like, you know, systemic challenges, you know, as a creative, like example, there's a brand, clothing brand, collaboration, brand that I liked, war, they're like, hey, we want to work with you. I like cool. So we're going back
and forth. So we're in the final stages of like giving to the point where it's like, you know, that last talk before something gets signed. So like, so I told them my idea and then they were like, we were thinking we wanted you to do a black, a black history item, right, quote, quote, right? And so all I said to them was I said, I don't do my whole, I'm black, right? So everything I do represent my culture with this brand. You know what I mean? So I don't need to, I don't really do the
whole black history thing. I'm not against black history, mom, at all. Yeah, I'm for Juneteenth, all that. But far as with a white own brand, being like, want you to do the black history month shoe, I'm like, well, we want you to dance for the month. Yeah, you know what I mean? So it's like, so then I was
just like, oh, I'm down to do something about it. So I went to black and then like a week later, this is having a couple years of, you know, got to email from them, like, hey, we're deciding not to go forward to collaboration, which is that choice? You know what I mean? And, you know, I didn't make a big deal about that in posted on social media, nothing like that, but stuff like that happens all the time, you know, because of some of the subject matter that what we represent, but also
not just a subject matter, what we look like, you know, even it's not even about, well, didn't tears goes through this because it's a like always funny, I find it funny when people call, I read write ups and people like, remains like social activist clothing, I'm like, I know, I've know I've read
books on activists, I'm not activists, I am a commercial designer artist that tell stories of the human condition through clothing, through those guys of the African vass people who are activists, they don't make clothing, they are active, you know what I mean? They're activists there, you know, I mean like Angela Davis, you know what I mean? So I don't, I don't like when I get called activists, because I have a lot
of respect and it's just a different thing. I'm an artist designer, but, you know, I think a better even example is not what I went through, things I've gone through is, um, his last name is M.A. Y. O. Mayo, he's the new head coach of, I want everyone is watching to do this. When you get off, we can finish watching his interview, go to bleach your report or whatever, and look at the press conference of Robert Kraft and the new black head coach of the Patriots. The Patriot, yeah, I
heard that, I heard that quote. Right. Yeah, yeah, yeah, and he in the quote was just he said, you know, a systemic issues are real thing, and there's still here, and we have to keep working to change things. Go look at the comments. This is a thing on him. Yeah, this isn't hype. This isn't like streetware comments. This isn't fashion comments. This isn't music. This is sports America 50 states. And the stuff people are saying, that's what's going on. Yeah, but also it also, uh, validates
how we feel about the Northeast and Massachusetts. No, yeah, it's been historically fucking racist, you know what I mean? Like my dad hates Boston because we use a kid, the pictures of black folk kids being busted in and then white folk each side spinning on these kids saying the most horrible things. This day and the third. So I say all that to say that is yes, individual interactions can be beautiful and amazing. And this that, but what systemic is is the overall umbrella of
where society sits under. And we said we said we said under that. Or actually, we don't sit on the umbrella. We're in the rain, you know, and perfect example of you know, this guy's the black first head coach of a Patriots and he just makes a statement about pretty matter effects to him about race. And he gets attacked. And the funny part is a white reporter asked him the questions about the same. He wasn't even like, yeah, it wasn't it wasn't on his own volition or he had to which would
be fine. Yeah, but it wasn't and he was he was definitely baited into seeing something that was race driven. And you know, I applaud him from being honest because that takes balls. Yeah, he easily could have done the whole like, you know, tuck his tail and like, no, I'm just grateful to be in the room. All right, peace guys, you know what I mean? But actually like spoke is true.
So and it was dope that he. And what I found beautiful about that interaction between him and Robert Kraft was he basically in a way challenged with Robert Kraft sick is Robert set craft was like, I don't I don't hire based off color. I hired him because he's the best man for the job. And then he says, we you can't be colored. You have you have to see you know, you have to see it. So he basically challenged, but that can
exist in a work environment where. A Rob Kraft super old, super rich white dude, this is a young black man, he's like 37, we actually played the sport, not you know, 80% of the athletes are people of color, mostly black or Hispanic or whatever. And Rob Kraft got to say his piece, he said his piece and they can work together. And that's the beauty that this guy, his voice isn't even on the comment section people are trying to choke
out his voice. But you know, like what you're saying like the big the bigger issue also, there's just no black ownership, right? in the NFL. And I think you know, when there was this kind of like bum rush of luxury brands or like big big commercial brands and companies like hiring specifically, you know, African American black talent to shoot the campaigns or model in the campaigns or style of campaigns like there were no
black or brown creative directors. Yeah, right. So like if the creative director role doesn't change and there isn't really long term change, but also if there is an ownership of these brands, then there's no change period because now where we're at is things are back to regular schedule. Well, that's why I bring up the NFL. This situation with the coach male to answer your question is it's a micro from macro for America. So you know, NFL. Almost 80% of the players of POCs
Yeah. Um, I think 90 some are percent or like 99% owners are white and then there's five black coaches and one's in term and that one in term coach, I believe he coaches for the Raiders. I could be wrong said that you it's quoted in the article about me, you know, that he felt NFL is running like a plantation. You know, and so the whole thing is being able to speak about these things freely and not being told you're like being woke or why you got to bring up race, why you got to make
a race. So being able to talk about it and then that's what can lead to change because the thing is the problems are there, you know, you know, I mean, and the problems don't change because you opened up a store or then I'm opening up a store. Yeah, you know, you know, because we're still the minority. If you go, you know, my store is in so how yours in the LES, how many of the stores are owned by someone that looks like you, how many of the stores and so owned by someone that looks like me.
Well, it's about to say you're about to be number two, because that's the thing when people ask me about the awake store or about what's so special. I'm like, that I'm a native New Yorker. I'm a product of two immigrant parents, I'm Latino, and there's no other streetwear store owner that looks like me. Black or
brown, below 14th street. Like that's a problem. Yeah, like I don't see that as something for me to look as like something that benefits me or my business because I do believe in strength and numbers and then something that we've been practicing for the
last couple of years. But you know, kind of like going back to these kind of like issues, like these systemic issues, you know, like you just recently had a challenge with the departure of your last job, you know, and yeah, with supreme and that's what I don't, you know, one doesn't know clickbait shit that try to start talking shit about supreme. But it's just like the learning, the learning lesson, right? I think like, you know, a lot of kids see what we do. And they see the glory, right?
The glory, the glitz and the glamour of what we do, but really like what would be your, you know, like your words of advice, you know, for this next generation, trying to get these CD roles at places like supreme or your or be taught, you know, like, you know, what's the one thing if you would have been able to turn back the clock a year and a half in the middle of those negotiations or talks that you would have been like, you know, what? Great question. I need this. Great question. I would say
slow down. Twinkie well. And tranquilo means chill. Yeah, sure. Go ahead with the case. Yeah. And just don't get to you don't have to say yes, because of what your family never had or the struggle. That's the thing. I'm, you know, forget talking about supreme. I could put the owner so myself. I be part of I said yes, was because Vee, Vee passed away. So I was like, well, who the kids got that looked like them in a position
like that. Right. You know what I mean? Because, you know, Vee was, you know, Vee's the vice was like, I don't know if you should do it. He's like, Vee was like, why are they asking us now? You know, you got your thing going, what it would take for you to change that brand culturally? As literally the last conversation that would be before we were in a car going from this DJ set of circle local to the Mercer. He's like, so what
you're going to do about the premium thing? And he's like, I just don't know it, it's worth the energy it would take for you to change it culturally. And they've the highlights you now, you've been, you know, while they have, Vee always set us as you know, he was like, while they hollering at us now, they should have been a hat someone like us in that position. So I should have talked to you the couple other people I didn't talk to before because I was just, I was, I was like, I felt, I
felt I had to do it. You know, Ase, I was like, nah, you know, I mean, and not because Supreme, Supreme is a great brand. But because what do you, what do you think you can change there? What do you, what are you going to really achieve? Is it, is the money in time worth what you're losing from your time in the stand of
third and what you expect to you? And the pressure that was, you know, put put on me to, to, I don't know, make read, basically reinvigorate a brand that, you know, have become like a heritage street wear brand and, you know, it wasn't really popping like it once was because it's just, that's what happens over time. It's going to happen to dinner, tears one day, going to happen a week one day, you know, happen to wrap, you know, wraps it around, but it's not popping like it
wasn't in 90s, you know, but it's still great. So that's what I would say to kids are just really think about your validation
index. Why are you doing this? You don't owe nobody nothing. And if it really works for you, cool, go do it, but you know, all the culture enough and you don't owe, you just do what's best for you and healthiest for you, you know, especially if you got you know, and also if you have your own brand that's popping, that's the main thing with the trajectory of, you know, you know, where did them tears is that culturally and
financially, I didn't need the job. So why'd I take it? You know, I mean, and that got nothing to do with Supreme, that's me.
Right. And that's the thing I've been, you know, working on and that's the vice, you know, a give is just like, if you have your own thing, what why why are you scared to put it in the full time fully into your own thing, which you want to give and work for someone else, especially if that thing is like based off our culture, you know, I mean, which, you know, Supreme probably is, you know, a largely based off of, you know, New York, black and brown, black and brown, black and
brown culture. Yeah, you know, so that's what I would say to kids is just like really, really think and really talk to your peers about it, you know, I didn't really do that. I was kind of speeding, goes back to a conversation about the health and all that was stuff like, I was speeding off this
that fight just happened boom, V died. I got to offer the week V, you know, the actual letter to week V died like in my like in Miami, you know, I should have just been like, guys, I talked to you in a month, one of my best friends just up. So that's on me too, you know, I mean, so I would say,
would you say that was a little ego driven then? Yeah, definitely validation of like having that, getting that stamp, you know, I mean like, getting that stamp like, validation, like getting that stamp, whereas really the only validation, I gave you an example, I went, Andy had never been to my old neighborhood. So I took her to Farmer's Day, which is the best day to take her, she can meet all the guys and stuff.
So we went to Farmer's Day, something they've been doing the last three years, and we all hang out by the rock, barbecues, music, like old school old school shit, and boom, my man, Nigel came and the line was mad long for the food, and I'm on my, you know, I'm on my crutch. I said, yeah, I can't wait on this line. Andy and Nigel, what you want to do? I said, yeah, let's go to the, let's go by the fish spot by 40, not far from 40 projects. So Nigel takes us, we get in the car,
and we drive around this street called the white wall. Anyway, there was these kids, young kids on four Willas, and one kid had on tank top and the B-story did them to his jeans. That's the only validation I need. The streets I used to walk as a single digit, double digit teenager, 20 year old, this kids wearing me and my, my, my, my comrades, my friends, clothing. Why do I need any more validation than that? That's the thing I, you know, me and Supreme both played a part in
that thing not working out. The part, one of the parts I played is just like me caring about that validation of being a crave that that wasn't that that was that was wasn't is my ego, you know, and that's something I, you know, I work on for myself, just really finding validation and you telling me you think I'm one of the best storytellers, having that B is important as Bernardo, no give me a job or having B-story
willing to do a collaboration with me. These amazing two ways and designers have that be just as important as Kim Jones want to do a collab with me. You know, um, Kim, he's in his saint. Actually, I take it back as Kim, he's in a trot like he's, he's in a trot, but you know what I'm saying or like shop guy tried, huh? Yeah, shop guy tried to work at high that work with high dog works with Michael Coppeman, but um, you know, just finding, getting the main
validation for myself and my happy with what I did. And then the second level of validation, if you're even going to go there from my tribe and and also really it's about, and I may Anthony, my business partner told me this, he said, remain is just about you and your art and the customer. Yeah, not even the customer. You even got by the materials is about you might just watch the videos. That's
all it matters. Everything else is noise. And that's the, that's the vice I could give is it's about you and the viewer. Everything else is is noise and spend your time far as when it comes to your, you know, art and design is thinking about the person that's taking their time, valuable time to watch your videos, come to your store, buy your spending money, would they could spend it on anything else on your stuff, repost your stuff, like it, tell their friends about it,
focus on them. They're the most important, they're the most important thing. Besides you being, and then the most important thing is you being good with the work. So that's the thing, one of the things I learned from that situation, that I should have thought about that more before I sign that contract. You know what I mean? But you're living you learn. It was a great experience. I met Andy there. So it's great. I mean, that's a big benefit. You got yourself
a Wi-Fi. Yeah. I feel how you're feeling, Trimney? How you feel? You feel good? Yeah. I feel like we covered a lot. A lot. I feel like we covered a lot. I don't know if it's the clickbait that most people are going to tune in looking for, but I really hope that you walk away with brand new perspective on Trimney and also myself and in our friendship and in our kinship. Any parting words?
You know what? Point words? I appreciate all the, there's just once in a blue, a lot of people come up to me a lot in the street. I appreciate the people that are just like, yo, we happen you doing, you doing better. You know, I read anyone that took time to like, just pay the attention to what I've been going through. Health wise and the people that made comments about paid attention to that made comments about the industry. I appreciate that a lot because you don't
gotta say nothing. You could just be like, I want to take a picture or yo that drop was dope. So someone being like, yo, I'm happy you out the wheelchair. Yo, how's your health? A stranger saying it to that to you? I respect that. I appreciate that. Because I don't always, I'd be keeping it moving. I just say, thank you. I might seem like the grinch, but I'm not the grinch. I really, it hits me. It really wants my heart. But also, it's a testament that New Yorkers
and that assholes. No, yeah, I know you're specifically talking about New York, because that's the love I get here. Yeah, get the random kid like, yo, we see you, we fuck with you. And it's always in the day that I'm like, I don't want to do the shit no more. Yeah, I'm done. I don't give a fuck about T shirt or shit. And I get like the random fucking little Columbia quidorian kid like, you know, thank you for what you're doing. I fuck with you. Real talk. Just like, okay, cool. I guess I'm
doing the right thing. Real talk. That it hits it like really hits me in a heart when you know, sometimes it'd be grown ass men are grown ass women. It's not about kids, you know, but just someone that just speaks on the work or speaks on me as a human being. I don't ever take any of those interactions for granted. I wish I could, I wish I had time on my legs, it felt better and I could just stand in and talk to them. I got to get
off my leg, get off my feet and keep it moving. Or I know, I'm in a rush, but I really, that's my part in words is I appreciate, especially this last year and a half. I appreciate everyone that's come up to me in the streets. Cool. My name is Angela Vake. Thank you for tuning into another episode of the business of pipe. Shout out to Hippies and I'll catch you on the next one. Face. Thanks for listening and be sure to tune in next week for another episode of business of hype.
Subscribe to the show on your podcast platform of choice and check us out on YouTube if you really want the full experience. While you're at it, go ahead and leave us a review to and let us know how you feel about it and what we're doing over here. Whether it's right or wrong, just be honest, be fair and be loving, peace.