Matt Pagan: On The Most Important Principle In Surfing - Holding and Releasing
Episode description
In this week’s episode, we’re joined by Matt Pagan (@matt_pagan), a former pro surfer, impressive shaper, and surf coach who runs his own surf school. In the podcast, Matt highlights the significance of paddling and weight distribution in catching waves, along with tips on turning midlengths. So tune in and don’t miss this episode as we discuss the importance of finding the right board size and volume for your skill level!
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction and Background
03:01 Finding the Right Board Size
09:38 Mastering Paddling Technique
19:19 Understanding Volume and Lift
26:15 Balancing Technique and Wave Count
28:13 The Importance of Mentors and Coaches
28:42 Choosing the Right Surfboard
31:36 Riding Larger Boards in Big Waves
34:58 The Advantage of Being a Shaper and Surfer
38:18 Insights into Turning on Mid-Length Boards
50:40 The Significance of Paddling in Surfing
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