From The New York Times, this is Animal. I'm Sam Anderson. Episode 3 Manatees. Alright, good morning. Hey, how about yourself? We picked a great day. I know. Yeah, it's the Rain's Nine issue that is the lightning. And I got an apple on my phone here. We got to have some lightning. But it's their call. But I'm not comfortable going out. There's a lot of lightning. You don't want to be on the water during the lightning.
So you all booked a private tour? Yeah, okay. Yeah, I think Kelsey's going to join us. He just texted me. For some reason I do not fully understand. I've always wanted to get in the water with a manatee. Manatee is a big, pudgy, blobby looking. I don't know. Cross between a walrus and a potato. Sometimes people call them sea cows. Because they basically just float around grazing. But they're a lot weirder looking than cows. They have these funny little flippers.
It's sort of boomerang shaped flippers up front that they used to navigate around. And then this big flat paddle of a tail. Like a super beaver or something. They wet vegetables, seagrass mainly. Almost never aggressive. They kind of float outside all of these cycles of predators and prey and doing stuff. They just float there. And I sort of want to float outside all of those cycles and just not worry about deadlines and meetings and whatever.
It's stressful out there. But not under the water. Looks like they're sending people out. Yeah, they'll be watching the weather. So when I think about getting in the water with a manatee. I don't know exactly what I want to happen. But when I really try to imagine it, I think what I want is for a manatee to look at me. I want to see a manatee seeing me. I want to look at a manatee and I want the manatee to look back at me. And I just want to have a moment of connection or whatever it is.
People said they were ugly. Now, manatees are a protected species. And the only place I know of in the United States where you can legally swim with manatees is a place in Florida called Crystal River. I'd heard about that place from watching the classic manatee documentary made by Jacques Cousteau back in the 1970s. And Jacques Cousteau and his whole crew of French oceanographers with their little red beanies. They have a local guide and it's a kid, a teenager named Buddy Powell.
And Buddy Powell is actually still there. In the decade since he's become maybe the preeminent manatee scientist in the world. And he's the director of a big marine center not far from Crystal River. And he occasionally will still take people around Crystal River where he grew up as he did for Jacques Cousteau. What is this? This is my ability, assumption of risk. So we arranged a private boat tour with Buddy Powell, me and my colleague, Caitlin Roberts, who is there with the microphone.
It's a basic color alligator. Buddy's PR prison Kelsey is going to join us too. She's running a little late. Okay, not here yet. She's close though. All right guys, we're going to go ahead and get started. So Caitlin and I had actually been in Florida for about a week before this swimming day. Chris crossing the state, talking to various manatee experts, kind of getting ready for that moment when I get in the water and have an encounter. Everyone here is for 1015, correct?
And once you start, as soon as you start learning about manatees, things get pretty heavy. Because from a distance, manatees make me very happy and I find them very soothing. Manatees, I don't think experience life that way, which we found out very quickly. We talked to a guy who works with the Save the Manatee Club. And he paddles around at his canoe and he recognizes all the manatees by their scars, by the damage that they've taken. So manatees are, they're huge animals.
They float slowly and often right near the surface. And so when a speed boat comes ripping through, often it will hit a manatee. And getting hit by a speed boat is basically like getting hit by a truck that has swords all over it. So he's seen manatees sliced up so badly, they don't have tails or hit so hard by a boat that their ribs are sticking out. Just the worst of the worst. He also told us some really freaky stories about alligators that I'm not going to get into right now.
But you'll need to get wet suits and snorkeling gear here. So I just went to, and then I'll need to watch a video. Okay. Manatee matters. Okay. Okay, where else do we go? We went to this pathology lab in Tampa where they actually do autopsies on every manatee that turns up dead. In Florida, to figure out the reasons why. And they've been seeing a huge increase in the number of manatees that are coming in. Sometimes it's just days on end, you know, eight, nine, ten manatees.
And when they open up the door the next day, it's just that many manatees again. And it's just kind of nonstop. The boat strikes. There's something called red tide, which is a kind of algae that blooms in the water under certain conditions and makes manatees drown. And then lately they've been seeing something really horrible, which is kind of new front in this crisis, which is starvation.
Finding manatees with sand in their stomachs because they're just desperately rooting around trying to find any bits that they can eat. Because the water quality has become so bad that these huge seagrass meadows where manatees have been feeding for hundreds and thousands of years are dying off. And so they go there to eat. And it's just fields of sand. So we get out on boat if you've got to watch the, oh, we have to watch manatee manners.
Yeah. Welcome to the Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge and the Kings Bay Manatee Refuge. I kept asking these experts like, how do you deal with this emotionally? Is it hard? Do you cry? And the following activities or the attempt to perform any of the following activities is prohibited throughout Kings Bay, chasing or pursuing a manatee. A lot of them were able to have a kind of scientific detachment. They're just really trying to diagnose what's wrong and help as best they can.
But I remember one guy spoke with, he surprised me a little bit. I said, you know, do you have hope for the future of manatees? And he said, deep in my heart? No. But he said he's still, he's deep in his heart, no, but he still hopes. He also said, if we can't save manatees, we can't save anything because manatees are so resilient. They have really tough skin that's hard to cut.
They have very fast coagulation in their blood, so their wounds heal very quickly, which is how they're able to survive so many of these boat strikes. And so if we can't find a way to keep manatees alive, then we're not going to be able to save anything. Let's do it, I'm ready. Bye. Thank you. Thank you. Oh, who's got? I know. To be honest, that kind of makes me hate us for wanting to swim with manatees.
Well, the people that don't follow the regulation, but even us, our stupid wet suits floating around in the crowds of people staring at the manatees, is like, shut the whole thing down. Well, hopefully people will feel a sense of all and want to protect them. Right?
Yeah. So that's like the risk-benefit ratio you have to weigh, like how much does this increase people's awareness and affection, therefore lead to protection and all that, how much does it bother the manatees and mess up the environment? Yeah, that's why there has to be, I mean, also a lot of regulation on the tour guide, too. So after we signed all of our forms and squeezed into our wet suits and watched this video, we stepped outside and the sky had cleared miraculously.
And we got ready to step on this boat where Buddy was going to drive us around and hopefully make my stupid manatee dream come true. Okay, go over to the boat and then we can get up to you. So we can go fetch up those signals. Oh, yeah. Have you driven one of these reports, sir? I have. Okay, so you understand that stream of water that needs to come out of that motor at all times. So Buddy Powell, the local guide, gets us in our boat and we tutel off into the water. This is where you grew up.
This is where I grew up. I was actually born in clear water, but my family had a little fishing cottage up here. And I wanted to know all about his Jacque Cousteau experience and what that was like. Were you aware of Jacque Cousteau at this point in your life? Yeah, back in the day when we only had three channels, right? You know, you would sort of wait, you know, when they come out like four times a year or twice a year, it was like a big deal to watch that show.
So obviously, you know, very much a role model. To be a kid who loved nothing more than being in a boat who had memorized all the creatures that lived in this habitat that he grew up in, to get a call from Jacque Cousteau in the 1970s when that name was as big as a name could be. Especially for a kid like that. And so they kind of adopted me and took me under their ring. And, you must have felt like a little rock star. It was pretty incredible. That's for sure. Did you wear the little red hat?
I did. I did indeed. Did you ever try smoking a pipe? I never tried smoking a pipe. Did you drink some wonderful French wine? I have definitely at that age. They were trying to cultivate my inner Frenchness. And yes, I drank my fair share of wine. And it was a wonderful experience because I just absolutely fabulous. And of course, that just changed my entire life. So I'm going to be keeping an eye out, you know, as we're going along for manatees.
But I wanted to tell you a little bit about what we're seeing here. So this whole crystal river. And so, yeah, he's steering us all over his childhood territory. And he's, of course, able to say, you know, this used to be like this. And this used to be like that. And now there's a giant mansion here. And so that's when they begin. Now, he said the water used to be. I mean, it's called crystal river because the water used to be crystal clear. And now it's pretty murky in most of it.
The water quality has really plummeted. And you used to see none of the boat traffic that we were seeing that day. You would not see groups of tourists out there looking for manatees. It was just, it was just buddy and the manatees all alone back in those days. What are these little heads that I keep seeing popping out of the water? Those are turtles. You know, I keep seeing things in the water. You see like a little something pop up from the water.
And I'm like, manatee, but he's like, nope, that's a turtle. And something would jump out of the water and just be a fish. But then at one point, he did say there it is. Or 11 o'clock. So you can see the series of them. And one in front of the other. So it's just slowly swimming along. That's right. And we saw this manatee off to the left of the boat. So we don't want to disturb it because it's there. Coming up to the surface. See the back? There's the back of it. So that's a nice adult manatee.
The tail, we saw the whole. See, it's back come up and then it's tail. And it would leave these, what buddy called tail prints on the water. That's so you can sort of follow where it was going. And it was really thrilling to see one. So far from sure, just doing its natural thing. Does it still feel special for you to see a manatee? Oh yeah. It's hard to explain it. But every time I see a manatee, I get excited about it. And I can watch him for a ride. So back, you know, back there.
So we're cruising around. He's taking us down a little side coves. And as we're cruising around, we keep seeing. These guys are probably with one. Those guys over there are probably with one. These other tourist boats and crowds of people in the water. And that was the fastest way to find a manatee. It's kind of like when you're a yellowstone, the fastest way to find a bear is to find the traffic jam of people looking at the bear on the side of the road.
There were traffic jams of boats and crowds of tourists who were floating with pool noodles and flippers and goggles. And they're all just kind of hanging around a manatee while it's eating. I don't know. I feel almost inclined not to get in the water with a big crowd of people staring at one manatee. So we're kind of keeping our distance. Because once I see that, it's not. It's not what I imagined for my manatee encounter.
Somehow it does not feel to me like outside of the predator prey, hustle and bustle chain, the side of... Whoa. It's a zebra pelabarx on it. You tell what size that one was? Small adult. He's hanging out at the bottom. You describe what the theme looks like? Uh... Well, we got one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. Plus boats out here. Full of people and wet suits.
And then we've got groups of people in wet suits with pool noodles and snorkels sticking up who are in the water, kind of face down. All in a tight cluster. We assume staring at one manatee, we've got two or three groups of people like that. Yeah. We've got boats with docked outside of houses. Boats with huge, huge, powerful looking motors. This boat has two giant motors on the back, two big Honda motors. And as you can see, he's circling. He doesn't realize that there's a manatee.
As you can see, you can see the bottom. That's not really that cool. Super shallow. So he could be doing some damage. Well, he's going slowly enough that that manatee will move out of the way. But if he wasn't going slowly, yes, absolutely. And not only that, it's just a matter of disturbance to these animals. They become somewhat habituated, but generally they just, you know, they want to be left alone to feed. So we basically did this all day.
We see a manatee who would be surrounded by a crowd. And I would say, well, let's try another one. And finally the day was over. I was sunburned. We had to take the boat back. And we went into this little lagoon. And there was a manatee and there was a crowd of people around it. I don't know, Kelsey. How do you feel? Do you want to jump in? I mean, I'm hot. So. I thought about it and decided, okay. I guess I should probably just do it. You could do it here.
Yeah. Since we know we're here, came all this way. I don't want to miss my opportunity and regret it later. So I guess I'll just be one of the crowd and get in there. You think? Let's try it. These guys are kind of harassing him all of it. And sometimes somebody would point out like, oh, they're kind of harassing that manatee. You're really not supposed to be that close. You're not supposed to be swimming after it. You just stay still and let it do what it wants. And you don't follow it.
And you don't interact. You just look. It's so I'm very slowly. It's so I'm just told me to float like a log when I get in there. It's probably the same at least. I'm gonna do your two lengths away from it. What if it approaches? Then you just stay still and let it do its thing. And like I said, just pretend to be another object in the water. So Sam, I'm probably gonna stay up here and maybe you can kind of tell what you're doing as you're getting in the water. All right.
Well, I'm gonna put this snorkel on. And take my shoes off. Okay, so there's two right here just feeding. And so what you don't want to do is disturb them in any way. And just be as quiet as you possibly can. Keep an eye on me. Because I can obviously, I don't get in the water. I can spot and see further away. And so I'll sort of give you directions. I don't like to yell out over the water. But just occasionally just lift your head up and take a look at me. Keep an eye out for alligators.
I'll tell you if one comes. It's fun came out for that. Yeah. So I was in my wet suit already. I put on my flippers and my goggles and my snorkel and got in the water. So 72 degrees doesn't feel that warm. Kind of chilly water. So I get in and the water is very murky. There's a lot. 11 o'clock, sure they had 12 o'clock. 11 o'clock. There's a lot of plants, a lot of seagrass. And so it's just like murk and seagrass. And I can't really see where I'm going.
But I know the general direction the manatee is in. And buddy is kind of shouting out, you know, it's at 11 o'clock and he's guiding me across the water. So I'm kind of just swimming with a face full of murky seagrass. And I can't see where I'm going. And I'm not sure if I'm going anywhere. And in all of a sudden, it was such a shock. All of a sudden, I come shooting out of the murk and I'm just, I'm like on top of the manatee practically. I did not see it coming.
By the time I saw it, I was there. And it's, it's eating, facing away from me. And so I come to a stop, basically right next to its gigantic tail. Which I know from my manatee research is so strong and potentially dangerous. And so I was instantly kind of panicked. But I also knew that rule number one of being near a manatee is that you can't panic and thrash around because you'll scare the manatee and then it will potentially thrash.
And so I had to sort of work as hard as I could to stop my momentum as quickly but as gently as I could until my momentum stopped just like inches from the manatee tail. And I was able to kind of scooch backwards very slowly until I was a few feet away. It's about a manatee away from the manatee. What a manatee length it was. And then I just watched. I just stared because this thing was so otherworldly, almost like ghostly pale kind of gray color, almost like glowing in the light.
And it's just peacefully eating grass. And all these other people around me, but we're not noticing each other at all. Because we're all just so in awe of this manatee really. And I don't know how long I floated there, but for a pretty long time. And then I decided, all right, I saw a manatee. Didn't turn around and look at me, which I mean why would it? But that was okay. So very gently I turned and I swam through the murk back to the boat.
And just as I was starting to tell everybody what I had seen, one of the little crowd watching the manatee eat shouted, it's turning, it's coming your way. And I turned and the manatee had turned around and was swimming directly toward our boat. Oh my gosh. And so I just gently let go of the ladder and dropped back under the water to see what it was going to do. And the manatee came right over to me and started grazing the seagrass right next to our boat kind of down below my flippers.
And so I just floated there suspended watching it. And then after a few seconds, the most magical thing happened, which is the manatee stopped eating. And it tilted its body up vertical and it floated up toward the surface. And it paused and it looked at me. Like it really looked me in the eyes. And I was looking at the manatee and the manatee was looking at me.
And I always fantasized about this moment and all the many feelings that would pass between us and we've just kind of beam-worm feelings back and forth to each other. I felt in the manatee's gaze, I felt nothing. There was no magical soul connection. And that was good and normal. And the fantasy I had was abnormal. I should probably talk to my therapist Susan about it on Friday at 1pm. And so it kept drifting up and it took a breath. And then it went back down with bubbles coming out.
And it tilted itself back to horizontal. And it started just swimming past me and under the boat. And this thing was so huge. It took forever. It felt like it was swimming in slow motion. I just watched its whole pale glowing body kind of pass right in front of my face. Peacefully, gracefully. And its huge tail came by last. And then it was gone. And I went back up to the surface. This one here was so close. Speeding right there came up the surface right in front of me to breathe. Looked at me.
Which, that was my goal. I wanted to be looked at by a manatee. Looked deep into your soul. And I really was so jazzed. It was very profound. It just looked at me. I feel good. I feel happy. Yeah, I feel like weirdly fulfilled. Life mission has been fulfilled. It was sweet. I wonder where that manatee is now. I bet it's right near the same spot. Eating grass. Taken a nap. Farting. Sending bubbles up to the surface. Big jowls shaking. Let's choose. Let's let us. To grass.
This episode was produced by Caitlin Roberts and Larissa Anderson with help from Crystal DuHane. It was reported by me, Sam Anderson, and edited by Wendy Dorr and Larissa Anderson. It was engineered by Marion Luzano. Our executive producer is Paula Schumann, original music by Marion Luzano and Pat McCusker. Fact checking by Anna Alvarado. Special thanks to Jake Silverstein, Sasha Weiss, and Sam Dahlnick.
Also to all the manatee experts we met, Wayne Hartley, Martina DeVitt, Andy Garrett, Wanda Jones, and Tom Pitchford. And to Craig Pittman who wrote the book Manatee Insanity, which was a great resource. You can listen to all of our episodes wherever you get podcasts or visit our website at nytimes.com slash animal. I'm Sam Anderson. Thanks for listening.